Hanging a wooden garden gate

[dogfonos]

About to purchase a framed ledged and braced closeboard gate to replace a rotten existing one. The new gate I'm interested in looks identical to this one:

However, looking at the gate's design, I feel the two hinges (top & bottom) should be fixed to the right hand side of the frame (as viewed from this frame side) and the single bolt I'll be using should be midway up the gate on the frame's left side - but I wish to hinge on the left side. Would it be OK to fix top and bottom hinges to the left hand side or would that lead to a weakness? Thanks.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

I would look for another gate, one where both the struts are going from bottom to top as per the following pic. They supply ones like the one in your pic to suit both a left or right hand hanging but they are a compromise.

 

[Stivino]

Why not flip the brace to suit your needs?

 

[KentExpert]

There is a chance that the gate will drop over time as the hinges should ideally be on the left. If you have no other choice I would probably get some good adjustable hinges like these - https://www.jacksons-fencing.co.uk/...hook-and-band-hinges-box-type-band-galvanized

At least then, if the gate does drop then you will be able to adjust it without it becoming a pain. I have used Jacksons adjustable hinges on my gates for years. It saves so much time and effort rather than having to completely remove the gate and hinges. They are expensive but the alternative is a 'L' shaped adjustable hinge (image below). This will hold the whole thing in place as well to reduce any chance of it dropping.

 

[dogfonos]

Purchased a different gate in the end - a mirror image of the gate pictured in post#1.

Thanks for comments/suggestions, appreciated.

 

[JohnD]

Bear in mind that the braces are usually fitted quite loosely, held in place with a few insubstantial nails, so it is easy to take them off and refit the correct way round. Some makers actually supply the braces loose.

While they are off you can give them, and the now-exposed surfaces beneath, a few coats of wood preservative or water-repellent stain.

And reassemble with more substantial rust-resistant fixings.

 

[dogfonos]

Bear in mind that the braces are usually fitted quite loosely, held in place with a few insubstantial nails, so it is easy to take them off and refit the correct way round.

Stivino also suggested that approach in post#3 but the only way I know to do this would probably damage the frame a bit.

The new gate looks pretty good but, as with most I'd guess, it must have been stored outside for months and all the exposed nail heads have rusted - no worries as it will still see me out. I will treat the gate though when it dries out in the summer.

Next step - hang the gate...

I've been looking into the best method to fix a 4" x 2" timber to a concrete post so I can fit the gate hinges to it. Never used concrete screws/bolts before, always used either rawl bolts or screws with plastic rawl plugs. The concrete post I need to drill is in great condition but ~50 years old and I suspect far tougher than modern (powdery) concrete posts. The concrete post I need to drill is clearly made from a fine ballast as there are lots of visible stones in the mix - lord knows how tough this will be and whether the drill bit will "wander". I've drilled concrete and brickwork many times but never anything like this post. I have an SDS+ drill so fingers crossed.

A question: would concrete screws/bolts work well in such tough concrete or am I better off with a more traditional fixing method? Rawl bolts would mean drilling quite a large hole in the concrete post so I'd prefer to avoid doing that. Thanks.

 

[JohnD]

I really don't recommend drilling into a reinforced concrete fencepost, especially with an SDS which bashes its way through. You are highly likely to start cracks, which will weaken it and allow water to enter, leading to spalling and to rusting of the reinforcing steel. if you are unlucky you will sever some steel.

If they are H shaped posts with no factory holes, you can use a stainless clamp, or wedge wooden battens into the grooves.

I can't see a concrete post in your pic.

I use concrete spurs that have two cast factory holes, with M8 stainless studding.

BTW the braces are pretty sure to lever out easily with the old chisel you use to open paint tins. They are not morticed into the framing or ledges.