Hi all. I really dont know what im talking about..so please be gentle. My question is..can hardwood flooring be fitted over an existing concrete floor..if relevant underlay is used? i read on another forum that it needs to be layed as a floating floor and glued together. It was also said that if the tongue and grooves were glued the floor is likely to split leaving 10mm gaps? Can someone please help out???
hardwood floor onto Concrete floor
- Thread starter whats d.i.y?
- Start date
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whats d.i.y? said:
I think they mean: when installing the floor floating (which is possible if you use DPM + insulation underlayment) leave a 10mm gap as expansion gap between the floor and walls.
Glue the T&G of the boards (not some drops here and there, but the whole length of the groove).
I think they mean: when installing the floor floating (which is possible if you use DPM + insulation underlayment) leave a 10mm gap as expansion gap between the floor and walls.
Glue the T&G of the boards (not some drops here and there, but the whole length of the groove).
Hi, thanks for the quick reply. Nope.. it was definately a case of the wooden flooring was likely to split and that it could even leave upto 10mm gaps...
Sorry for my ignorance but what is DPM?
Damp Proof Membrane
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On concrete floors you need DPM to prevent any residu moist from the concrete to get into the wood.
On top of the DPM you need sound-insulation.
The only way glued T&G would cause the wood to split is either when the wood was to wet and has dried out to the normal humidity in the house, or when there is a very dry house climate.
999 out of 1000 floors with T&G glued this doesn't happen. What forum told you that??
On top of the DPM you need sound-insulation.
The only way glued T&G would cause the wood to split is either when the wood was to wet and has dried out to the normal humidity in the house, or when there is a very dry house climate.
999 out of 1000 floors with T&G glued this doesn't happen. What forum told you that??
Yes, but 'weakest link' will be the concrete surface (or how well can the adhesive bond with the concrete/screed layer). Also, if there are uneven patches you create hollow 'sound-boxes' (if you know what I mean).
For correct glue-down installation a minimum of 70% of every board has to be firmly in contact with the adhesive.
Hope this helps.
For correct glue-down installation a minimum of 70% of every board has to be firmly in contact with the adhesive.
Hope this helps.
Hi All
Ive just purchased a floor from "floors to go". Its one of their own products Its a T&G board which has a real wood Verneer.
Its to be layed on a concrete floor (80year old).
My questions are:
1. How should i apply the glue to the floor ie notch trowel? if so what size?
2. Do I need apply glue to the T&G if so whats best to use?
3. how many rows do i clamp at a time?
4. what expansion gap is best for this type wood?
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Ive just purchased a floor from "floors to go". Its one of their own products Its a T&G board which has a real wood Verneer.
Its to be layed on a concrete floor (80year old).
My questions are:
1. How should i apply the glue to the floor ie notch trowel? if so what size?
2. Do I need apply glue to the T&G if so whats best to use?
3. how many rows do i clamp at a time?
4. what expansion gap is best for this type wood?
[/img][/list][/code][/quote]
Didn't 'Floor2Go' enlighten you on thier own products?
yes the 18 year old sales assistant with Bad skin and a brace tried to tell me how to fit it, but i just thought there might be someone on here who might be a little more experienced than him
guess not!
guess not!
you mention a 80 year old concrete floor. This will not have a dpc so will be damp and you'll need to apply your membrane over it with no holes or gaps.
W-Y-L has never mentioned braces or pimples and does know a thing or two.
W-Y-L has never mentioned braces or pimples and does know a thing or two.
JohnD said:
I recently fitted my 18mm solid oak flooring just before xmas directly onto a concrete floor.
Our house is a mid 70's semi and the flooring was tiles.
We pulled the tiles up and was left with a bitumin type substance covering the concrete...we was told that this was the DPM and would be fine to lay the solid oak flooring too
1: We used a 5mm triangular notched trowl to apply the glue to the concrete floor. Glue and trowl came from Ridgeons
2: We didnt glue the T&G
3: Didnt use any straps either
4: I left a 10mm expansion gap all round
Floor looks absolutely spot on and im well chuffed with the final result.
Our house is a mid 70's semi and the flooring was tiles.
We pulled the tiles up and was left with a bitumin type substance covering the concrete...we was told that this was the DPM and would be fine to lay the solid oak flooring too
1: We used a 5mm triangular notched trowl to apply the glue to the concrete floor. Glue and trowl came from Ridgeons
2: We didnt glue the T&G
3: Didnt use any straps either
4: I left a 10mm expansion gap all round
Floor looks absolutely spot on and im well chuffed with the final result.
smokey said:
What you have described is what I will embark on next month. The house is 12 years old (move in this week) and I am hoping that the floor is level. I just hope the glue holds as it seems strange not glueing the tongue/grooves.
It's either or: glueing the boards full to the underfloor, no need for glueing T&G ordazzling said:
installing the floor floating and glueing the T&G's.
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