Heatline Combi!!!

[MartinW]

Help,

Its been a week without hot water and heating so im not a happy bunny at the mo!
I have BG cover so the enginners have been out but still 4 visits later and 4 parts later still no joy.
The original reason the boiler stopped working was becuase (according to the boiler led) the air pressure switch was faulty? Then when the BG man came round they decided it was the Control board. That was replaced and all worked for about 6 hours. It packed up again but this time the led that states something about gas pressure and or ionosation valve? (I may have this wrong) its the last light on the right of the board. Now the only thing the bg man had changed other than the proccesor was to turn down the gas pressure as i had told him that the boiler everynow and again fired up with a bit of a louder boom sometimes.
The third enginner checked the pressure and siad it was at the 12.5 limit so he couldnt turn it back up as it would be illegal?
They have since replaced the electrodes and a couple of other things but to no avail!!
The boiler fires up and the pilot light comes on but after about 5 to 10 seconds the pilot light goes out and that last light on the LED lights up.

The fact that the gas pressure has been turned down, in my dummy mind is the only thing that could be effecting it?

Is there any thing else it could be so that i can badger the next british gas man that comes round later today! they are clearly baffled!

 

[Nixt]

Ask them to check the basic things first eg. flue for detached joints as this is the simplest thing that causes a woof on ignition. Then to check the air pressure switch and its air tubes and venturi for blockages (seeing as the original fault pointed there). Next opportunity you get change from BG and find an independent specialist. The big firms tend to just fit PCB's then after several attemps just dismiss the boiler as cr*p.

 

[mehran]

What model of heatline do you have? The max gas burner pressure for models c24 and vizo 24 should be 12.7 but down to 11 is ok for the max. There is a setting for ignition capacity on the pcb, it could be that they have not set up the new pcb. on the pcb there is 4 potentiometers on the pcb the 4th should be set to 7 o'clock as you look at it and all the dip switches should be down(there should be a picture in your Manuel for all the setting)

Also if you can see the burner make sure that all the burner bars are alight, some boilers can have a cross lighting problem.

Also some models of heat lines have the flame detection tried in to the trap on condensing boilers. If the trap is blocked it would give the same fault as you described

I guess BG does not have a engineer in your area that has experience with heat-line boilers

 

[mehran]

also just to add too nixt post you could phone heatline to ask for the number of the local heat-line agent in your area for hime to fix it. dont know how much he would charge tho

 

[Agile]

Bg people are not very good on the cheaper boilers.

My immediate check would be the ignition setting pressure!

BG do have the option of calling the manufacturer's service agent to a joint visit if they cannot fix it themselves.

Tony

 

[mehran]

or from the other post a trapped/cut wire heatline boilers do have a problems with trap wires that go through the hinge of the dropdown pcb box. Normally shows up as a blown fuse tho but can be easily an ion probe wire.

 

[MartinW]

Just out of interest....... my gas flow pressure is at 12.5 after BG "turned it down" and its now not working. If the pressure needs to be above the recommended of 12.7 for the boiler to work then what would cause this?

 

[fitz1]

check there are good earth and neutral connections.