Hello... and... SHED Questions.

[Moody Toad]

Thanks for the advice so far everyone. Keep it coming, please.

Does anyone know the answer to my question about the existing wire to the garage of a few posts ago?

Here's ANOTHER question...

The T&E for the shed supply is going through the loft, right? Well, I've recently installed a TV signal amplifier in the loft, and it's currently powered by an extension cable through the loft hatch because there's no power supply in the loft. Obviously it's not good having this extension cable through the loft hatch, but finding a way of getting a spur from the bungalow supply into the loft is proving to be a pain. Does anyone have any thoughts on me installing a junction box along the loft length of T&E that will feed the shed and attaching a loft socket to it? Is it an option?

Thanks,

Paul

 

[slippyr4]

I have a new shed - 17' x 11'...

That's not a shed, it's an aircraft hangar.

 

[Moody Toad]

Thanks very much - I'll take that as a compliment.

It's split down the middle. One half as my gym / office, the other for general storage. Desperately need to get the power into it though.

 

[comms]

Just a quick one to satisfy my own curiosity. If the shed installation is run as a TT submain from the house cu (outside the equipotential zone) should the shed cu main isolation switch be RCD 30mA type as the lights will also need to meet the 0.4sec disconnection time.

 

[Adam_151]

No, it should be a 100ma time delayed rcd, the required disconnection time does not change with it being TT (and lights are not 0.4 they are either 4 or 5 IIRC), what changes is its ability to meet it without rcds

Unless its a very bad earth rod, then disconnection time will be acheived on a 100ma rcd.

Think things that do actually need a 0.4 disconnection have to be on a 30ma rcd though, or it might just have to be socket outlets that have to be

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Does anyone have any thoughts on me installing a junction box along the loft length of T&E that will feed the shed and attaching a loft socket to it? Is it an option?

No reason why not, except that the T/E, we've now agreed, is going to be 10mm², which is awkward to work with in JBs and sockets...

If it were me I'd put a 2A or 5A round-pin socket on the lighting circuit and change the plug on the amp.

 

[Adam_151]

Or when that 10mm² T&E is installed back to the cu, a 2.5mm² T&E could be installed at the same time and any loft sockets could be on their own 16A radial

 

[Deluks]

I don't get why the swa can't just go into the CU at the house end (via a suitable metal box as mentioned in a previous thread), and why does it have to go into the loft first, why not just through the wall and down into the ground?

 

[Moody Toad]

I only have one spare slot in the bungalow CU so I cannot run a separate circuit for the loft sockets. I know I could have a new CU but that's not a project for now. So... could I run the loft sockets off the T&E that's running through the loft for the shed?

Oh... the SWA cannot go out through the wall and into the ground because attempting to route the SWA down the side of the house would be a nightmare. It's easier to go through the loft... and if I could run the loft sockets from the same circuit that would be a bonus.

Sorry to push but can anyone answer the question about the garage cable from my earlier post?

Thanks all,

Paul

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I only have one spare slot in the bungalow CU so I cannot run a separate circuit for the loft sockets. I know I could have a new CU but that's not a project for now. So... could I run the loft sockets off the T&E that's running through the loft for the shed?

No reason why not, except that the T/E, we've now agreed, is going to be 10mm², which is awkward to work with in JBs and sockets...

If it were me I'd put a 2A or 5A round-pin socket on the lighting circuit and change the plug on the amp.

Oh... the SWA cannot go out through the wall and into the ground because attempting to route the SWA down the side of the house would be a nightmare. It's easier to go through the loft... and if I could run the loft sockets from the same circuit that would be a bonus.

No reason why not, except that the T/E, we've now agreed, is going to be 10mm², which is awkward to work with in JBs and sockets...

If it were me I'd put a 2A or 5A round-pin socket on the lighting circuit and change the plug on the amp.

Sorry to push but can anyone answer the question about the garage cable from my earlier post?

Err... what question was that?

 

[Steve]

Just as an aside, what is the most aesthetically pleasing way to exit a wall with thick SWA? Say you have a 10mm SWA coming horizontal out of a wall, and you want it to go vertically downwards, how do you acomplish this without it having a radius of about half a metre sticking out from the wall???

 

[Moody Toad]

BAS - Thanks for your replies. My question relating to the garage read...

The 'spare' way in the bungalow CU WAS used for power to the garage although no electricity has been used in there for a number of years. Am I allowed, as a DIYer, to remove the cable that still remains, or is that a no-no under the new regulations too?

I don't suppose you could explain a little more about your idea of powering the amp from the lighting circuit could you, please? I'm very interested in that workaround. It didn't realise it was even an option.

Thanks,

Paul

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Am I allowed, as a DIYer, to remove the cable that still remains, or is that a no-no under the new regulations too?[/pre]Removal is fine.

I don't suppose you could explain a little more about your idea of powering the amp from the lighting circuit could you, please? I'm very interested in that workaround. It didn't realise it was even an option.

Please don't read this as a sarcastic put-down, but what bit of "put a 2A or 5A round-pin socket on the lighting circuit and change the plug on the amp. " needs further explanation?

 

[mapj1]

As the TV amp will draw a lot less than a typical light bulb, it is fine on the lighting circuit, assuming you can acquire L,N and E from a light fitting, and not inadvertantly wire it into the bathroom light switch or similar. (so watch which wire you cut into for a junction box, - not a switch one!)
I'd cut the plug off and wire it in via its own FCU, or if it has a moulded plug you could fit a socket to the lighting circuit- though realise it would only be good for low power loads, hence the suggestion of a low current plug. There are people who think a 13A socket on a lighting circuit is not allowed for this reason - my take on the regs is it is not dangerous, just a nuiscence if the lights go out when you plug in a fan heater - but you dont, so a socket that is clearly off the lights circuit, is OK. I await the abuse !

 

[Moody Toad]

Thanks for the further replies guys.

BAS - Having read quite a number of your threads on here I've learned not to be offended by your replies.

I admit I'm something of a novice (I am trying to learn though) which is why I asked for further information relating to your lighting circuit power source. The questions I had in my head were how I identify a suitable lighting cable to connect to, and how I actuallly connect, e.g. in-line, via a junction box, via FCU, etc. Map suggested via FCU (thanks Map), but if I connect via JB or FCU do I use heavier cable than the lighting circuit is using (e.g. 2.5mm) or use the same as the lighting circuit?

Thanks,

Paul