Help wiring extractor hood

[Cocovsworld]

You can't assume the cable is even still connected to anything.

But any chance did you switch the cooker switch on at the wall, the big one?

A multimeter is your best friend here.

Hey, yes the switch was on for everything

 

[danechip]

Hey, yes the switch was on for everything

Problem solved. Call soon

 

[SFK]

Coco
So the good news is that you know that Hood works when provided with power.
That suggests that there is no power in wore coming out of wall.

I presume you have no multimeter.
It is best not to go for trial and error as it is dangerous, but here are my first suggestions:

See if you can work out what each of the FCU are for and label them.
Switch OFF power at FUSE box (Using Fuse box is now essential as you now have no idea where the power is coming from to power that wire - it could even be from the lights).
Reconnect Cooker hood to wire out of wall.
If the 13A fuse has not blown, then changing it from 13A to 5A will not make a difference - they will both pass power (until they blow).
If you are lucky then the 13A fuse currently in the FCU has blown, and if you change it to a working fuse (or 5A or 13A) it will make it work.
So try using the 5A fuse out of the plug, by swapping it with the 13A fuse in the FCU.
Switch ON power at FUSE box
Cross fingers.

SFK

 

[Cocovsworld]

Seems like no power at the FCUs. Are fuses good?
Do you have a multimeter?


Impossible to say from here. What were they used for before?


Yes but that will make no difference to whether it works or not.
Test fuses in another plug - something low powered - and see if they are good.

I don’t know if the fuses are good. I assumed they were if the previous hood I took off worked? Sadly I don’t have a multimeter either.

I wish I knew what they were used for but I’ve just moved in so I don’t know much about the electrical of the place

What would be a safe item to test a 13amp on? Everything I’ve checked so far is a 5. Would a fridge do?

 

[SFK]

Coco
Don't test the 13A fuse in a fridge (you want that to work).
Put it in a Hoover.
SFK

 

[danechip]

Oh sorry, I assumed the switch was the problem...

 

[Cocovsworld]

Coco
So the good news is that you know that Hood works when provided with power.
That suggests that there is no power in wore coming out of wall.

I presume you have no multimeter.
It is best not to go for trial and error as it is dangerous, but here are my first suggestions:

See if you can work out what each of the FCU are for and label them.
Switch OFF power at FUSE box (Using Fuse box is now essential as you now have no idea where the power is coming from to power that wire - it could even be from the lights).
Reconnect Cooker hood to wire out of wall.
If the 13A fuse has not blown, then changing it from 13A to 5A will not make a difference - they will both pass power (until they blow).
If you are lucky then the 13A fuse currently in the FCU has blown, and if you change it to a working fuse (or 5A or 13A) it will make it work.
So try using the 5A fuse out of the plug, by swapping it with the 13A fuse in the FCU.
Switch ON power at FUSE box
Cross fingers.

SFK

Hey thank you for this advice.
I’m just confused why the wire from the wall isn’t working suddenly when it was fine
moments before with the previous hood. I was very careful in taking it off and turned the power off from the fuse (not worth risking electrocution), and I also made sure that the wires didn’t touch anything as I extracted them then temporarily taped them off.

I’m going to try and text the fuses with the microwave and report back

 

[EFLImpudence]

I’m just confused why the wire from the wall isn’t working suddenly when it was fine
moments before with the previous hood.

Unless you have blown the fuse, or a breaker in the consumer unit has tripped. then it must be something wrong with your connections.

 

[Cocovsworld]

So I made an error (so sorry!)
The two fuse boxes aren’t the same amp. One is 13a and the other I’ve just seen is 3a.
I’ve tested the 13a fuse with my microwave and it worked fine. The 3a however was dead... could this be the issue?
The new hood is 5a if that’s of any help

 

[SFK]

The microwave needs a 13A fuse so it does work with the 13A fuse.
But your microwave needs 13A, so it might have just blown a working 3A fuse OR the 3A fuse was blown already.
(The 3A fuse needed to be tested in a Lamp as this needs less than 3A and so will not blow it).
Do not test the 5A fuse in the hoover or Microwave. Use a lamp.

Eitherway
Put the 5A fuse in the FCU in place of the 3A and see if New Hood now works.

 

[Cocovsworld]

I’m so sad. Swapped the dead fuse with the 5a and then re-wired the unit (Grey cable is unit, and white is from the wall). Still no luck
Have I wired it incorrectly?

 

[SFK]

Coco,
Wiring looks ok, but when you look up the holes, are the screws sitting on the base wire or the on insulation?

At this point I would say wire old Hood back on (as you said it was working before??) and see if it works (to test to see if gray lead is live or not).
SFK

 

[Cocovsworld]

Coco,
Wiring looks ok, but when you look up the holes, are the screws sitting on the base wire or the on insulation?

At this point I would say wire old Hood back on (as you said it was working before??) and see if it works (to test to see if gray lead is live or not).
SFK

I don’t see any screws. It’s just the grey cable coming from the hoods. There are other wires but they’re all tucked in:

I got the old hood back from the skip!
Re-wired and now it won’t work have I somehow managed to ruin it?

Noticed this from old hood. The earth wire I thought was coming from the lead but it actually just solitary and screwed into the metal body

 

[EFLImpudence]

I don’t see any screws.

He meant the screws in the connector blocks.

Are you using - putting the fuse in - the correct FCU?

 

[SFK]

Coco,
Apologises. When I said check the screws I meant at the termination block between the old wire and the new hood wire. This was in case the wires inside the termination black were not properly connecting to metal (all it needs is one wire ):