No Heating Off is not required. once Hive decides its warm enough it will break the contact and turn demand off.
Have you wired it in yet?
Your above working is right just forget the NC (2) terminal
Jon
Help with hive fitting to ideal vogue boiler.
- Thread starter Dave3261
- Start date
No Heating Off is not required. once Hive decides its warm enough it will break the contact and turn demand off.
Have you wired it in yet?
Your above working is right just forget the NC (2) terminal
Jon
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Thanks once again and no I haven't wired it in yet as I'm at work dealing with idiots who can't drive and insist on crashing because it's cold grrrrr (yet we manage to get there at warp factor 8 without crashing)
I'll do it in the morning as it seems to simple lol
Thank you once again and as promised I'll chuck a donation to h4h and stick the screen shot up.
Thank you
I don't envy you!
Have fun, any issues feel free to comment or contact info is in my profile if you need a quick hand. (You can tell its xmas as i'm normally one of the miserable gits on here!)
Good luck and let us know how you get on after doing it. It's always nice to hear about the positive end results.
Jon
Well it's in and working
A huge thank you for your help and advice. I really appreciate it.
As mentioned I'll make a 25 quid donation to h4h (charity close to my heart) as I saved that paying someone to tell me what goes where.
I'll post the screen shot shortly.
Thanks again and happy new year from a warm house with a now happy wife lol
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Awesome Dave, glad you're warm and the missus is happy! Thanks for coming back and letting us know how you got on.
Jon
Jon
Hi there - I am trying to install the 3rd generation Nest. I have an Ideal Logic 30 boiler with a wireless thermostat.
I was trying to connect to the opentherm yet I was unable to use the Nest to control the heating, even when I removed the wireless receiver. Is there anything else I need to do from a wiring perspective? All I had wired was the L and N from the boiler to the Heat Link, and the two opentherm terminals.
Thanks in advance!
Dan
I was trying to connect to the opentherm yet I was unable to use the Nest to control the heating, even when I removed the wireless receiver. Is there anything else I need to do from a wiring perspective? All I had wired was the L and N from the boiler to the Heat Link, and the two opentherm terminals.
Thanks in advance!
Dan
Hi Dan Vant and welcome to the forum.
Ideally you should have posted your own new thread. For future reference, tagging your question on to someone else's is known as Hi-jacking and is against the forum rules. Apart from that, not too many people will take the effort to go through an existing thread and find your question.
Anyway back to your question. I assume that the original thermostat didn't use opentherm. If so and you have just removed the original wiring, then the heating wiring will be 'open circuit' and it will not come on. Usually the two live switching wires that went to the original thermostat receiver need to be connected together to complete the circuit.
Check your boiler instructions first though, because I think that the link may not be need to be present with all boilers that use opentherm, and making it may mean the heating is permanently 'on'
Ideally you should have posted your own new thread. For future reference, tagging your question on to someone else's is known as Hi-jacking and is against the forum rules. Apart from that, not too many people will take the effort to go through an existing thread and find your question.
Anyway back to your question. I assume that the original thermostat didn't use opentherm. If so and you have just removed the original wiring, then the heating wiring will be 'open circuit' and it will not come on. Usually the two live switching wires that went to the original thermostat receiver need to be connected together to complete the circuit.
Check your boiler instructions first though, because I think that the link may not be need to be present with all boilers that use opentherm, and making it may mean the heating is permanently 'on'
Ah - thanks for the advice, particularly regarding the forum etiquette!
In that case, I expect it makes more sense to connect the heat link without using the opentherm connections.
In addition to simply removing the existing wireless receiver, is there anything else I need to change? Eg, what about the red loop cable that can also be seen where the wireless receiver sits?
Thanks again,
Dan
In that case, I expect it makes more sense to connect the heat link without using the opentherm connections.
In addition to simply removing the existing wireless receiver, is there anything else I need to change? Eg, what about the red loop cable that can also be seen where the wireless receiver sits?
Thanks again,
Dan
First of all, I should mention, that I cannot remember with the Ideal if it is necessary to open up the 'room sealed' part of the boiler casing to access the wiring terminals. If it is, then this should only be done by a Gas Safe engineer who can make the necessary safety checks afterwards.
If the 'red loop cable' you are referring to goes between two boiler terminals marked 'room stat timer' then that is where I would have expected the original wireless receiver to have been connected and that I had suspected had been left open circuit. If the link is there, then I would have expected it to work.
If you wanted to use these terminals with the Nest, then the link would be removed and the two 'room stat timer' terminals connected to the Nest Heatlink terminals 2 & 3. It doesn't matter which way around they go, but don't connect any other wires there.
As you have a boiler with the opentherm kit, it seems a shame not to use it. It's a more efficient way of operating your boiler with no loss in comfort. But as I haven't wired an Ideal for opentherm control, I can't really advise further as to why it didn't work.
If the 'red loop cable' you are referring to goes between two boiler terminals marked 'room stat timer' then that is where I would have expected the original wireless receiver to have been connected and that I had suspected had been left open circuit. If the link is there, then I would have expected it to work.
If you wanted to use these terminals with the Nest, then the link would be removed and the two 'room stat timer' terminals connected to the Nest Heatlink terminals 2 & 3. It doesn't matter which way around they go, but don't connect any other wires there.
As you have a boiler with the opentherm kit, it seems a shame not to use it. It's a more efficient way of operating your boiler with no loss in comfort. But as I haven't wired an Ideal for opentherm control, I can't really advise further as to why it didn't work.
As Stem had said, use OpenTherm as it's an option, because it's the most efficient control logic, but only a Gas Safe Registered Engineer should be removing the front case of your boiler and the 26.9 checks need to be carried out by said engineer before the boiler is operated again if the casing has been removed
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