On the way home tonight, when switching between high and low beam headlights as oncoming traffic approached, my lights got stuck on high beams. (01 Seat Cordoba) The arm that functions the switch wouldn't click them back off, and the clicking just doesn't work anymore. Also had a burning smell. I suspect the high beam low beam switch is done. However, when I got home, and turned off the lights and the engine, the high beams stayed on and wouldn't switch off. I had to pull the high beam headlight fuses out of the fusebox so that they would turn off. Can anyone confirm if this is the switch, if it is, which switch I need to buy, and if it's a simple enough job to do? And if there is a better way to deal with the problem rather than removing the fuses in the meantime. Cheers.
high beam/low beam headlight switch?
- Thread starter madder
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I haven't done a column switch on these before, but I gather that the steering wheel doesn't have to come off......which is a handy move air bag wise.
Anyway - remove the column shrouds top and bottom and expose the switch.
Look for any obvious signs of burning, and smell the area too.
Often the switch movement feels different if its gone faulty.
A good motor factor should be able to supply you with a new switch, but compare the two before you buy.
I think the reason that you couldn't put the lights off without pulling the fuses is because the switch is always live - due to the parking lights being activated when you indicate left - ignition off.
John
Anyway - remove the column shrouds top and bottom and expose the switch.
Look for any obvious signs of burning, and smell the area too.
Often the switch movement feels different if its gone faulty.
A good motor factor should be able to supply you with a new switch, but compare the two before you buy.
I think the reason that you couldn't put the lights off without pulling the fuses is because the switch is always live - due to the parking lights being activated when you indicate left - ignition off.
John
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Hi Madder, its been a while?
Have you a good local breaker? It might be the same switch as some of the VW's (Polo Golf etc). Don't go at half three on a Saturday or they will shoot you.
Disconnect the switch and see if the "on all the time" fault goes away? If it disappears, then its the dip/main beam switch that's at fault. If it still persists, it may well be the dip/main beam relay, if it has one fitted.
Have you a good local breaker? It might be the same switch as some of the VW's (Polo Golf etc). Don't go at half three on a Saturday or they will shoot you.
Disconnect the switch and see if the "on all the time" fault goes away? If it disappears, then its the dip/main beam switch that's at fault. If it still persists, it may well be the dip/main beam relay, if it has one fitted.
I do have a good breaker closeby alright. But I best not go today!
I have to drive tonight though which is a worry. I will try to figure out what the best temp usage system is. Will the indicators work ok if I don't replace the fuses? I guess I'll check that now in a few minutes.
I was concerned that the steering wheel and airbag would have to come out, but I think you're right John. The lever seems to be separate from the steering wheel. Thank God.
I have to drive tonight though which is a worry. I will try to figure out what the best temp usage system is. Will the indicators work ok if I don't replace the fuses? I guess I'll check that now in a few minutes.
I was concerned that the steering wheel and airbag would have to come out, but I think you're right John. The lever seems to be separate from the steering wheel. Thank God.
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This looks like the switch I need? But does this control the high/low beams as well as the indicators? And does it look difficult to install?
This looks like the switch I need? But does this control the high/low beams as well as the indicators? And does it look difficult to install?
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That looks like a steering wheel/airbag off job to me. The steering shaft will have to come up through the hole?
Disconnect the plug first to ensure its the switch, not the relay. When you take the covers off you might even see the welded contacts in the switch (you can on the older VW's)
Indicators will work, I'd say?
This might help, unfortunately he's not local
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epIoJi_DaOE
Disconnect the plug first to ensure its the switch, not the relay. When you take the covers off you might even see the welded contacts in the switch (you can on the older VW's)
Indicators will work, I'd say?
This might help, unfortunately he's not local
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epIoJi_DaOE
If that is the switch, it does look like a wheel off job, doesn't it?
No real matter, I disconnect the battery for a couple of hours, and in the mean time see how the airbag comes off (usually a couple of screws on the reverse side of the wheel). If I remember, there's only one yellow wire connection, but its been a while since I had to do one.
John
No real matter, I disconnect the battery for a couple of hours, and in the mean time see how the airbag comes off (usually a couple of screws on the reverse side of the wheel). If I remember, there's only one yellow wire connection, but its been a while since I had to do one.
John
Indicators worked. But I still think(hope) it might not need the wheel off? But I see what you are saying in relation to how the part looks. Is there any chance that it can be done without removing the wheel? It's just that it looks like you can open the casing around the column switch?
Is the relay located in the same place as the switch? I should say that there was a smell of burning coming from the switch location, and that the lever doesn't click back and forward anymore. So I guess that tells us it's the switch, right?
Is there any chance that it can be done without removing the wheel? It's just that it looks like you can open the casing around the column switch?Is the relay located in the same place as the switch? I should say that there was a smell of burning coming from the switch location, and that the lever doesn't click back and forward anymore. So I guess that tells us it's the switch, right?
Pull the shrouds away, but looking at the design of the switch the wheel will have to come off as the column will protrude through the central hole.
It does sound like the switch is goosed, by your description.
Don't worry about shifting the wheel - its not as imposing as it sounds.
John
It does sound like the switch is goosed, by your description.
Don't worry about shifting the wheel - its not as imposing as it sounds.
John
The air bag will have to come off to allow the wheel to be released......I've only done a few (Citroen, Ford and one Beemer) but the principle was the same.
The battery should be disconnected and the car left for an hour or so to let the firing capacitors discharge. (In reality this is hardly necessary but it is always recommended).
The airbag is held into the wheel centre by screws from the back.....thats the awkward bit, but spinning the wheel usually allows a screwdriver in.
Then, its back to the centre position and lift the airbag / horn unit out, disconnecting the wires as it comes clear. The airbag wires are always yellow, I find.
Then you can release the central column nut and pull the wheel up the column and away.
Don't be scared by the airbag - so long as the battery has been disconnected for a while its completely dormant.
John
The battery should be disconnected and the car left for an hour or so to let the firing capacitors discharge. (In reality this is hardly necessary but it is always recommended).
The airbag is held into the wheel centre by screws from the back.....thats the awkward bit, but spinning the wheel usually allows a screwdriver in.
Then, its back to the centre position and lift the airbag / horn unit out, disconnecting the wires as it comes clear. The airbag wires are always yellow, I find.
Then you can release the central column nut and pull the wheel up the column and away.
Don't be scared by the airbag - so long as the battery has been disconnected for a while its completely dormant.
John
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Sounds like the switch, smoke never lies ......
But to check that it is the switch, you can do this by disconnecting it (pull the plug off the end) and see if the lights go out (fuse back in). If you have the room you might be able to connect a different switch (new or otherwise), all before you go at the wheel.
From memory, I think the stalk switches sort of slit/stack together around the steering column, so the wiring might be to tight to connect a test switch without taking the wheel off.
But to check that it is the switch, you can do this by disconnecting it (pull the plug off the end) and see if the lights go out (fuse back in). If you have the room you might be able to connect a different switch (new or otherwise), all before you go at the wheel.
From memory, I think the stalk switches sort of slit/stack together around the steering column, so the wiring might be to tight to connect a test switch without taking the wheel off.
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