Hisensne WD3 Washing machine drum not turning.

[Northbeach]

Hey all.

My ex's/kids mother's waching machine is not currently working (I have the exact same model).

I went round last weekend to try and fix thinking it was likely the brushes (machine was filling etc but the drum wasn't turning.

I took the motor out and quickly realised (and had this confirrmed) that this machine doesn't use brrushes!!
I had a look at the filter at the bottom of the machine and that was clear so I'm at a loss as to how I can begin to fix this.

I suspect she'll need an engineer as it might be something to do with the circuitry (I won't have the tools or skills to diagnose I'd imagine...?)

Any tips or ideas before I advise her I can't fix this machine this time?

Thanks!

It's this model by the way (Hisense WD3):

 

[jj4091]

I guess you checked that there was no damage to belt and other drive components while you were checking for brushes. Was the drum free to turn by hand. Did the water drain ok. Are there any error codes. Is it the same in all modes.

 

[Northbeach]

Drum turned fine, belt is ok, drains ok etc
No damage as far as I could see

There is an F08 code btw.

 

[mattylad]

On Hisense washing machines, the F08 error code typically indicates a motor, inverter, or heating circuit fault. Depending on your specific model, it often causes the machine to stop mid-cycle, refuse to spin, or fail to heat the water properly. [1, 2, 3, 4]
The most effective steps to troubleshoot and fix this issue include:

1. Hard Reset the Machine
Sometimes the error can be a temporary glitch in the control board.

• Turn off and unplug the washing machine from the wall outlet.
• Leave it unplugged for at least 10–15 minutes to fully discharge.
• Plug it back in and try running a basic "Spin" or "Rinse" cycle to see if the error clears. [1, 2, 3, 4]

2. Check for Drum and Pump Blockages
If the drum cannot turn smoothly, the motor will fault out and trigger the F08 code. [1, 2]

• Unplug the machine and check if the drum turns smoothly by hand.
• Check for small items or clothing trapped between the drum and the door seal.
• Remove and inspect the drain filter (located at the bottom front of the machine) to ensure there are no coins, hair, or debris blocking the pump. [1, 2, 3]

3. Inspect the Heating Circuit (If washer/dryer)
In many Hisense washer-dryers, F08 relates to the water heater or NTC (temperature) sensor failing to communicate. [1, 2]

• Check the wiring leading to the heating element and the temperature sensor (NTC) at the bottom/back of the tub to ensure no wires are loose or burnt. [1, 2]
• If you are comfortable using a multimeter, test the heating element for continuity (it should have a low resistance) and the thermistor for correct ohm values. [1, 2]

4. Inspect the Motor and Inverter Board
Because modern Hisense machines use brushless inverter motors, "F08" is much more likely to be a board or sensor fault rather than worn-out carbon brushes. [1, 2]

• Ensure the wiring harness connecting the motor to the inverter board is securely plugged in.
• Check the inverter/main control board for signs of visible damage, burn marks, or blown components. [1, 2]

 

[Northbeach]

Thanks for this.
I have performed the hard reset but haven’t tried the rinse/spin cycle (just tried a 15 min wash).

Checked the bottom right filter and although there was a bit of leakage the filter was pretty clear (cleaned it anyway).

The wiring all looked fine (everything looks ‘brand new’) and the machine isn’t that old. One of the reasons I felt it may have been worn brushes.

 

[jj4091]

If you have a multi meter disconnect the leads to the heater element and check for continuity (step 3 above)

 

[Northbeach]

If you have a multi meter disconnect the leads to the heater element and check for continuity (step 3 above)

Is it quite obvious which theee leads are attached?

I’ve put it all back together but will head over at the weekend and take another look.

I do have a multimeter but it’s been so long since I’ve used one I cannot n remember how to use it!!

Set it to resistance and take it from there?

Thanks!

 

[jj4091]

Yes, there will be either 1 wire to each terminal and one to the element body (earth) or 2 wires together on one side and one on the other. Just replace them in the same order as you remove them. Taking a pic before you start might be a good idea. Depnding on your meter you will get a low reading if it is ok or nothing if it is open circuit. Don't forget to short the probes together before you start so you know that you can measure continuity and the batteries haven't gone flat.

 

[Northbeach]

Ahh, I understand.

So literally a case of unscrewing the wires (if that's how they're attached) on that bottom circuit section from the motor above?

In the pic I posted I presume it's the cables in the plug (white, yellow etc) rather than the blue and black which look soldered to the board?

Then check each wire individually for continuity? Apols if these are basic questions - it's been a while since I;ve done stuff like this!

And if there's on continuity might it be a case of buying a new bottom power unit (which *may be cheaper than a new machine?)

Thank you!

 

[mattylad]

If the machine isn't that old, how old is it?
Is it totally out of all warranty period?