Hive Dual Channel - advice please
- Thread starter SimSim100
- Start date
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Don't thank us yet, we need to know it still works!Many thanks. You've probably saved me quite a few quid. Cheers
Hopefully once the thermostat cable is fully removed, that will give you a bit more breathing space within the box.
But for a little extra flexibility, a socket spacer could be used.
Maybe a bit of a bodge, but it would be safe enough.
Since there’s possibly no play in the wires/cables for a wiring center, I wonder if there’d be enough play for a double pattress box?https://www.toolstation.com/axiom-p...VGMftCh2iBQVKEAQYASABEgJ6nvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds with a blanking plate on the other side? If not, then, maybe a deep pattress box or a spacer as per @RandomGrinch?
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Thanks for the suggestions. I'll probably go down the 'extra spacer' route for now.. The Hive arrives tomorrow, by which time I'll hopefully have checked that the 'wiring out the thermostat' has had no detrimental affect on the boiler running just with the old timer. I'll keep you posted in a day or so.
...having further thoughts on this.
If the thermostat wiring is exactly as you have described, then all that we have done will bridge it out - exactly how we want it to be.
However, for an S-Plan, the call for heat output would be daisy chained through the programmer.
I would be interested to know where the call for heat connection goes from the programmer - terminal 4, a blue wire, oversleeved brown.
Possibly ends up here?
Purely speculation, but if this is the correct wire, and there is no other wire in that terminal block, the programmer may have been bridged out!
Meaning the heating was purely controlled by the thermostat.
...and I should probably have asked this question first - were the original controls working properly to begin with?
If the thermostat wiring is exactly as you have described, then all that we have done will bridge it out - exactly how we want it to be.
However, for an S-Plan, the call for heat output would be daisy chained through the programmer.
I would be interested to know where the call for heat connection goes from the programmer - terminal 4, a blue wire, oversleeved brown.
Possibly ends up here?
Purely speculation, but if this is the correct wire, and there is no other wire in that terminal block, the programmer may have been bridged out!
Meaning the heating was purely controlled by the thermostat.
...and I should probably have asked this question first - were the original controls working properly to begin with?
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Or I may be completely wrong!
I didn't pay much attention to this when you first mentioned it...
Sorry this has become protracted, but your wiring isn't quite making sense to me. It isn't helped by the rats nest behind the FCU!
I didn't pay much attention to this when you first mentioned it...
But now I see that your thermostat is a Danfoss RET230L and has been rebranded by Hep2O, could this actually be a standalone thermostat for the underfloor heating?
Sorry this has become protracted, but your wiring isn't quite making sense to me. It isn't helped by the rats nest behind the FCU!
Hello RG... I'm just back at the house. The thermostat on the wall certainly controls the boiler for the CH at the moment and the wall timer works too.
There is another wireless Centre timer controller that I put batteries in and it now controls the floor heating. At least when I wind up the temperature setting on it the boiler fires up and the floor eventually gets warmer. The radiators stay off so it seems to work fine independently. I can't find the box that the wireless is no doubt paired with but I won't worry about it for now.
Meanwhile, you have correctly circled above the call for heat from Terminal 4 which is coupled together with a brown wire that goes up into the trunking.
Over to you again...
There is another wireless Centre timer controller that I put batteries in and it now controls the floor heating. At least when I wind up the temperature setting on it the boiler fires up and the floor eventually gets warmer. The radiators stay off so it seems to work fine independently. I can't find the box that the wireless is no doubt paired with but I won't worry about it for now.
Meanwhile, you have correctly circled above the call for heat from Terminal 4 which is coupled together with a brown wire that goes up into the trunking.
Over to you again...
Ok, thanks for the extra info.
It certainly seems an interesting setup - there is definitely more to your system, than we have seen so far, including a separate valve for the UF heating.
As before then, link the black wire (just for clarity - previously linked to grey at thermostat) to the load L terminal of the FCU and see if everything is still controllable!
We eagerly await the results!
It certainly seems an interesting setup
- there is definitely more to your system, than we have seen so far, including a separate valve for the UF heating.As before then, link the black wire (just for clarity - previously linked to grey at thermostat) to the load L terminal of the FCU and see if everything is still controllable!
We eagerly await the results!
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Oh dear, sorry about that
Something didn't seem quite right.
I suspect the tracing of the thermostat has gone awry.
I would put the cables back, and then for proof, keep the thermostat off, but bridge L and terminal 3 on the back plate, if the heating is controllable after that, then we know the cable tracing may be the problem.
If it doesn't work after putting the cables back, a connection may have been disturbed during the investigation.
Hi there.. I've managed to get back to the house briefly and have spent longer belling out the wires. I was wrong about the above Brown wire in the thermostat. It's actually linked to the call for heat (CH On) in the timer switch.
The other 2 descriptions still stand.
Thanks
Great, this connection?
If so, that's more like it!
All you should need would be to link this terminal block, and the black wire to the boiler
A slight note of caution though.
I still would have expected the boiler to fire up when you connected the black wire to the FCU L earlier on.
We will wait and see.
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Great, this connection? I think so yes, although the various chocolate blocks have now been moved around to get a better look at things.
View attachment 315935
If so, that's more like it!
All you should need would be to link this terminal block, and the black wire to the boiler
View attachment 315936
A slight note of caution though.
I still would have expected the boiler to fire up when you connected the black wire to the FCU L earlier on.
I'll get back to you one day soon... Meanwhile, thanks again.
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