How Do I Install Hob and Oven on Cooker Radial?

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Hi - I want to install an electric oven (rated at 2KW) and an electric hob (rated at 7KW) on an existing 40A/6mm cooker radial. I have stripped out the old cooker control unit and am wondering how best to connect them to the supply.

I get the feeling that, as they both draw different amounts of current, they may not be able to share the same circuit unless the lower one is protected by a fuse. So perhaps the oven could be wired into a fused spur off the cooker radial....is this the done thing?

I guess there must be a fairly standard way of doing this, and hopefully someone can put me right.
 
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a fused spur will provide adequate protection, but joining an incoming and outgoing 6mm in the supply side terminals of one will not be easy (it should be possible though if you use a MK FCU and a deep box).

other options include MCBs in modular boxes or small consumer units hidden under the worktop fed from a normal cooker control unit above.
 
I am at a similar stage of connecting a hob and an oven. Instead of a cooker control unit I have discovered a 30AMP 3x2.5mm2 junction box with a 2.5mm2 cable connecting the old cooker via the junction box. The cooker radial is 40AMP/6mm2, as above.

Like the previous question, I am wondering about the oven connection. I am pleased to see the fused spur option.

Alternatively, is it advisable to plug the oven into an adjacent 13AMP double socket sharing with the fridge freezer?
 
I too am in the same situation (although it is a gas hob). Is it ok to spur off twice from the cooker socket, once for the ignition and once for the hood??
 
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I am facing the same issue. One 45A CCU but I now need to connect a 16A hob and a 16A oven.

Any Ideas???
 
nc said:
I am facing the same issue. One 45A CCU but I now need to connect a 16A hob and a 16A oven.

Any Ideas???

treat it as a radial and put two 13A switched FCUs on it. Though I've never seen a 15A hob, are you sure?

I can't cope with all you people putting different but related questions in a great heap. Please start your own.
 
I can't cope either - I feel my question is being swamped by other similar but different questions! No offence, guys, and it seems that this is a timely issue, but I need a specific answer to my question, not more questions.

I found the suggestion of taking a fused spur off the cooker radial helpful, and I understand that the wiring might be tricky with such a fat cable. Would the spur then come off the cooker control unit and go to a 13A connection unit? It seems that mixing two different cable sizes on the load terminals of a cooker CU might not be a good idea, unless I ran a 6mm2 cable to the oven connection unit....

Or perhaps the oven should be plugged into the kitchen ring? Would it still need its own isolator?? Is there not a standard practice for this (as it must be very common)?
 
You can get cooker connection points that take two outgoing cables


I think they are made by click, I'd imagine the oven is supposed to be fused down to 16A, so the aforementioned FCU, or B16 in a suitable enclosure (fastened in an ajacent unit to the oven) on the supply to the oven
 
The Jeep said:
Or perhaps the oven should be plugged into the kitchen ring? Would it still need its own isolator?? Is there not a standard practice for this (as it must be very common)?

Provided it is an oven which takes less than 13Amps (which is usual for a UK single oven) then you can put it on the ring with a 13A cartridge fuse. Mr Jeep, I see the oven you mentioned uses about 10Amps which is OK and typical.

Three of the ways of doing this:

- plug it in

- use a FCU with a flex outlet

- Put a 20A DP switch with neon onto the ring or as a spur, placed above the work surface close to the oven (but not directly above it) feeding by a 2.5mm cable chased into the wall, to a 13A unswitched single socket below the worktop, and the oven plugged into this with a 13A fused plug with a flex (preferably heat-resisting 1.5mm 3-core flex.)

My personal preference is the third option but the others are OK.

If you have a kitchen radial, including a cooker supply, you can put the oven outlet onto that instead of the ring.
 
Gosh, I too am in the same situation, what shall I do?

Only kidding!!!
 
Thanks for that.....here's what I'm planning on doing, so please see if this is OK:

Running both the hob and the oven from the same Cooker CU, in 6mm2 cable, protected by a 32A MCB at the Consumer CU. However, the oven specs state a maximum of 20A breaker (admittedly with 2.5mm2 cable), so I thought I could run 6mm2 cable from the cooker control unit to the oven socket outlet, with the 13A fuse in the moulded plug offering first-line protection for the oven (oven is 2.1KW, hob is 5.8KW).

What d'ya think?
 
sounds Ok to me. make the socket accessible in case you ever need to change the fuse.
 
The Jeep said:
Thanks for that.....here's what I'm planning on doing, so please see if this is OK:

Running both the hob and the oven from the same Cooker CU, in 6mm2 cable, protected by a 32A MCB at the Consumer CU. However, the oven specs state a maximum of 20A breaker (admittedly with 2.5mm2 cable), so I thought I could run 6mm2 cable from the cooker control unit to the oven socket outlet, with the 13A fuse in the moulded plug offering first-line protection for the oven (oven is 2.1KW, hob is 5.8KW).

What d'ya think?

Is it possible to have a twin socket outlet as in The Jeep's example and use the two new sockets for the oven and the hood?
 
Oven and hood, yes, because the hood is a low load. But better not to use a double socket, because the moment your back is turned someone will plug in a 13A appliance; and a double socket is not rated to carry 26 A, only about 20A (and I rather think only warranted to carry 13A).

A cooker hood is fixed, so I don't think it should have a plug and socket, I think it should have an FCU fused at 3A (and preferably then a chased feed to a flex outlet up by the hood itself.)
 

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