how much for a "cap off" on Kitchen supply?

S

snadge

we are about to ring some corgi reg gas men to get a price on having the cooker removed and tap capped off (then price for installing new hob)

I just thought I would ask what sort of price are we looking at?

edit: the cooker has some flexi pipe attached from it to the pipe

thanks
 
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actually - its just moving a cooker out so we can install new floor and plasterboard walls - it has a thick black flexi pipe on it - dunno if this is one of these "bayonet" ones or not
 
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this is it here - is it one of those?

16kav5z.jpg
 
push the collar up and twist it anti clockwise then it will pull out :idea:

and this doesnt require gas-safe engineer?
- I DO turn off the gas supply first yeah? lol :LOL:

and it automatically seals so the gas can go back on for the GCH..? or do i fit a cap on it?

do i have to expell gas thats left in cooker after turning off the gas before doing this?

thanks
 
its a self sealing fitting (usually) ;)
no need to turn the gas off

whats left in the flexi won't hurt

thanks I will give it a bash but i think i will turn off supply just for good measure

when we install the new kitchen its an electric oven but gas hob - will I be able to DIY that or will i have to get gas-safe in to do it? - could i attach that flexi pipe to new hob?

thanks for all your help :)
 
we're getting a bit close to DIY gas assistance, but disconnecting a hose isn't "gas work". You shouldn't really turn off the meter, as you should then carry out a tightness test, which you can't do. Remove the bayonet as KP says, then spray some diluted washing up liquid to check the valve isn't passing ( I KNOW, I KNOW, but the valve is going to be discarded!)

Having said all that you do need a GS RGI ti fit the hob. For that reasson, get him in BEFORE you start building in the units, as he may have to reposition the pipework first. ie a 2 fix (stage) job.
 
we're getting a bit close to DIY gas assistance, but disconnecting a hose isn't "gas work". You shouldn't really turn off the meter, as you should then carry out a tightness test, which you can't do. Remove the bayonet as KP says, then spray some diluted washing up liquid to check the valve isn't passing ( I KNOW, I KNOW, but the valve is going to be discarded!)

Having said all that you do need a GS RGI ti fit the hob. For that reasson, get him in BEFORE you start building in the units, as he may have to reposition the pipework first. ie a 2 fix (stage) job.

thanks for that - i wouldnt have thought of that - I done it as he said with a gas-safe engineer watching over me for some beer money he tested it wtih gas detector to make sure no leaks and done the washing up liquid thing to make sure grit wasnt allowing gas to escape :) - we called them out for the gas meter outside had a "at risk" tag on from British Gas and the handle was rusted but worked and the guy said nothing wrong with it, tested for leaks and was OK and said he thinks the tags been on since day one??? dunno about that like it looked quite new compared to everything else in there
 

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