How much to install stove by HETAS?

[Corgigrouch]

If you have an 8inch round flue then you don't need a register plate and the first item that you have listed is the Badger that you need.... and a HETAS certificate.

 

[DanH]

Thanks,

It's a 6 - 6.5 inch flue. I'm not going down the HETAS route as I can't find any who aren't charging too high and they are all starting to sound a bit too salesy and saying different things -I don't trust that particular system if the truth be told, mainly because of the inconsistencies in approaches and price. I'd rather fit it myself now and get the LABC out.

Dan

 

[Corgigrouch]

Cool... Just check that your LABC have the facility to do the checks for you, mine don't...... Had two builders today asking me to sign off their installs but I have seen enough dogs dinners to know to avoid.

 

[DanH]

Thanks, it's a pity you are not near me, you sound sensible!

Have you ever used/had to use an adapter on one of your jobs? I'm guessing you are typically using register plates...

Dan

 

[Corgigrouch]

Sensible????? Me???...... I've been called a lot of things but rarely sensible.

I only use a register plate to close up a chimney with or without a flue liner... As has been said elsewhere, stainless liners are only for repairing damaged flues and are not regarded as a permanent flue.... Fortunately a lot of my customers have 8 inch concrete flues or need new stainless twin wall flues.

Adapters are fine if the builder has made the flue vertical... I tend to use a tundish fitting on the raft lintel with an adjustable vitreous flue pipe..

 

[DanH]

Lol, just run into an inteteresting problem. I got the fire and stove pipe and decided to do a dry run to make sure distances etc are within regs. What I did not expect is the flue opening to be off centre to the fireplace! If I have the stove pipe going vertical into the flue it means I will have to chip away the stone about 3cm on one side to meet regs but then build the other side up to make it central.

The other and easier idea is to stagger the stove pipe up to the flue opening but with it already teeing from the rear of the stove I want to clarify if I can incorporate a couple of slight bends before ths opening? I've seen what the regs say about the angle of bends but I seem to remember reading about a minimum vertical run from a tee before another bend can be incorporated?

Thanks!

 

[Norcon]

Just use an offset adaptor coupling.

 

[DanH]

Thanks Norcon, I can't use those particular adapters as they are for an 8 inch flue but I'll look for something similar!

Dan

 

[onecog]

I think it's 500mm of straight pipe from the top of a woodburner but not sure about the rear.You could always use flexi straight from the tee but might not be visually good

 

[DanH]

Thanks onecog, I can't seem to find reference to vertical distance from stove to flue, all I've found is maximum the horizontal distance for the tee piece. I could make the offset with a couple of bend pieces but not entirely confident I'm allowed any more bends after I've used a tee pieces or whether it's incumbent on the distance of the straight piece?
Dan

 

[DanH]

...but I did find these snippets of advice from another forum in 2006, I think someone had a similar-ish problem:

"Bends of any sort also restrict the flow of hot gasses up your chimney. In an ideal world you should always try and get at least 600mm of straight pipe off the top of your stove before having a bend. If you could rear flue the appliance, you can then put a T section in (which is basically a 90 degree bend with a clearout branch which would collect any fallen soot from the chimney and allow access for cleaning and debris removal).
Another option would be to have a staggered S bend using 2 off, 15 or 30 degree bends depending on your offset required, one of which should incorporate an access door. "

and

"Building regs prohibit the use of 90 degree bends other than immediately off the rear of the appliance. Minimum permitted bend is 45 degree (or more accurately 135 degree) and more than two should be avoided. "

So is there a minimum bend then? The second quote implies that any bend has to be 45 degrees?

Dan

 

[DanH]

This is from www.specflue.com:

It is recommended that a vertical rise of 600mm should be allowed, immediately above the appliance before any change of direction is encountered.

Use of an adjustable length within the flue pipe connection, immediately above the appliance, enables removal of the appliance at a later date without the need to dismantle the full system.

If bends are required, no part of a flue pipe should form an angle greater than 45° from the vertical, except where it may be necessary to use a very short horizontal section, not exceeding 150mm, of flue to connect the flue pipe to a back outlet appliance. A maximum of four bends (2 offsets) is permitted.

So the 600mm is a recommendation if you can achieve it, but that seems only to be quoted with top of stove rather than rear. It would also seem that as well as the tee piece I could have another offset i.e. a max of 2 x 45 degree bends if I had to...not going to do that far as that's too severe in a short space.

Dan

 

[Corgigrouch]

The 600mm is mandatory... and no bends greater than 45 degrees....

 

[DanH]

Thanks corgigrouch, I think that one makes my choice. I've barely got that from the rear tee before it becomes the flue itself, so a mandatory 600mm will kill any bends off before the flue! Ah well, back to plan A and widening one side of the fireplace and shortening the other...unless anyone can convince me that an off centre woodburner looks great in a quirky kind of way...

 

[onecog]

It,s 500mm of pipe plus the 100mm to the centre of the bend gives you the 600 that,s why i said 500MM of straight PIPE.