I fitted 6 pods, 4 were useless really fitted as they were free, two were bedside lamps, handy to be able to aim at the book, but in the main avoided the MR16 spot light, or down lighter, and the two on the bed head were to be frank dangerous until I changed to LED, so easy to forget and burn ones hand on them.
But this house some already fitted, and I fitted more, one so I could aim to a dark area, and two as they pick out the colours in the dangly bits of the chandelier. The latter does not make lighting sense, 5 x GU10 bulbs all facing down, split into 4 outer and 1 inner, the inner one colour changing, it lights the stairs well, but it should do with around 25 watt of LED light.
In the main the so called down lighter is useless for lighting, my son swapped the 5 foot fluorescent fitting with a 24 watt LED tube for I think 16 GU10 down lights, so 24 watt to 16 x 4 = 64 watt, with a high ceiling, and the light is not better than with the strip light.
I have considered GX53 fittings as being a bit larger you get a better spread, but much depends on how reflective walls are. But when the MR16 first came out (Multifaceted reflector 16/8 of an inch across) they declared the spread. 36º or 45º Beam for example. The LED tends to have more spread to the quartz, and really no longer MR16 as there is often no reflector, but the name has stuck, 50 mm spot lights are called MR16 and you can get GU10, G5.3 or SES bases for them.
But in the main with LED you need more lamps, some are duel marked, as most the light is in a narrow beam, but some also spread out over a larger angle, but in a room with 9 x 50 watt quartz bulbs, to get same light with LED likely will need 16 x 3 watt, although in theroy 7 watt LED = 50 watt quartz, it is asking a bit much to have a 7 watt lamp remain cool enough without fins, and if you all fins then not 50 mm any more.
Also dimming switches should not in theroy be used with quartz bulbs, running them cool means the tungsten is deposited on the quartz which goes black, but may people did, and the typical dimmer uses the current through the bulb to work it, no neutral, same with wifi switches, there are models which use batteries, Tapo for example, so they do switch fully off, but often fitting LED's means the electronic switches will no longer work satisfactory. Either bulb stays on dim, or there is a shimmer when on.
On the plus side they use less energy, they last longer, and you can get the smart variant which can change colour temperature and even colour, but to buy a pack of 10 bulbs is maybe not the best option, I would change them as they fail, so if there are issues you can find a way around it, without like I have ending up with a draw full of bulbs which will only work in some rooms (those without electronic switches) and with a life of 5 years, or more, unlikely I will ever use up my stock.
