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How to get good finish on Dulux Satinwood?

Discussion in 'Decorating and Painting' started by SproutsDad, 30 Aug 2015.

  1. SproutsDad

    SproutsDad

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    I have used Dulux Satinwood white 'wash brushes with white spirit' version on the whole house woodwork and loved it until the new regulations for reduced solvents seemed to ruin paints of all types.
    I feel the water based satinwood is a cold translucent white, difficult to get good finish with brush or roller and is very difficult to sand down years later, an odd acrylic type surface! So I have steered clear of that.

    So I have the solvent based one but struggle to get a good finish with foam rollers like I used to do. These low solvent ones are very different and don't form a level surface the way the old ones did, very unforgiving. They are also very slow drying! The undercoat some years back when these new low-solvent ones first came in took nearly a week to go hard, tacky to the touch for many days.

    How do I get the very best finish using the solvent based satinwood? I have tried pain pads, mini foam and fleece rollers. But often I get a stippled look finish that doesn't level out with drying. Never had this problem with the old (higher solvent) version.

    Any tips please? Can it be slightly thinned??

    Many thanks
     
  2. joe-90

    joe-90

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    I thin every paint I ever use. It comes thick from the manufacturer so the decorator can thin it to suit his/her needs. What you are looking for is a flow. 5% usually does the trick. Roller on with foam roller, then run synthetic brush gently over the surface and walk away.
     
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  3. SproutsDad

    SproutsDad

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    Thanks Joe-90.
    Have I been imagining the difference with the earlier paints and there being more problems with surface finish, drying etc after the new regulations came in for less solvent content?

    I wouldn't have thought to brush after rolling? I had normally done the reverse if anything, used roller to remove brush marks.
    I am open to your advice and will go that route. Is synthetic brush preferable to natural bristle?

    Thinning - do I add white spirit?
    By the way this is the Dulux Satinwood bought about 2 years ago, I have two unopened tins as follows:-
    1 - Normal satinwood says to 'Not stir' - must be non-drip? Can that be thinned?
    2 - Another is 'Once' and advises to stir it?

    In both cased do I take off any oil on the surface?

    Many thanks for your advice. I have a whole landing, stairs and hallway with 8 doors to do so want this top coat to be spot on?

    I have short hair gloss rollers, are they any good?
     
  4. joe-90

    joe-90

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    The non-drip is a type of gel. Don't stir it, it goes lumpy. Take the liquid off that one.
    The 'Once' is a thick poor quality paint. Stir it and add at least 5% white spirit. Your paint should flow off the brush. If it doesn't - add more thinner.
    Roller first, fine hair will do, then very gently stroke a synthetic brush over it with the grain.
    I did a load of doors a few weeks back, they look like they've been sprayed. It's easy if you get it all right.
     
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  5. SproutsDad

    SproutsDad

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    Joe-90, thanks for the tips.
    I don't know why I bought the Once? Typical DIYer thinking it is a shortcut. I have most of the standard satinwood one anyway.

    It probably wouldn't be wise to use both types, Once and standard non-drip alongside each other? They must have a different sheen/finish?
    Possibly the Once upstairs where there is less light and the better standard one downstairs?
    >> I can put the Once aside and just use the standard non-drip one instead, but can't thin it, just take the liquid off, is that right?

    Satinwood these days seems much shinier than earlier versions - 12 years ago? Almost semi-gloss, not satin. What do you think?

    I might sound finicky but want to get this right, 8 doors plus the rest is a lot to have to redo if wrong.
    I have put so much work into the prep and undercoat, fine filler sanding etc with a good blemish free base.
    I don't now want to mess it up with a lousy top coat so want to get it right. So any tips are much appreciated.
    I'll maybe try one door separately in the garage first.
    My rollers are Hamilton Perfection Superlight simulated mohair, is that alright?
    Will use same Hamilton synthetic brushes.

    Thanks for your help
     
  6. joe-90

    joe-90

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    The sheen will decrease over a period of weeks.
    Roller isn't that important unless it loses hair.
    I get a perfect, flawless finish that is as good as a factory applied finish. Do as I say and so will you.
     
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  7. SproutsDad

    SproutsDad

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    Joe-90.
    Thanks will do.
    Regarding the Once vs. standard non-drip.
    Should I forget about the Once if it is a cheap, poor paint and not use it?
    Or shall I do as proposed and use it upstairs and use the good one downstairs?
    I don't want to find a poor paint deteriorates fast and I have to recoat it all in a short time.
    Thanks again.
     
  8. joe-90

    joe-90

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    If it's important to get right, I'd go shopping. Leyland is good, used it just yesterday. You can get it at screwfix.
     
  9. SproutsDad

    SproutsDad

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    Thanks Joe.
    Yes it is important to get right I think? I bought the Dulux in particular the Once thinking it was ok. Although I don't want to discard it (£) I have invested much more of my time in all the hard graft of prep in sand, fill, paint, sand, fill etc to get a good surface. The top coat painting bit goes so quickly by comparison, but a poor paint or short-lived surface can ruin all that good prep in an instant. Some of the older Dulux satinwood produced a good finish but has gone from white to grey in 8 years!

    Other tradesmen have moaned about the old vs. new low solvent paints, but I have heard them praise Leyland as a good paint to apply.
    Is that a satinwood normal drip paint or non-drip? Doesn't matter really. I can always use the Dulux elsewhere, but this is the entrance hall, needs to look good.

    Thanks as always.
     
  10. joe-90

    joe-90

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    It's just normal. Remember, if it drags off your brush it needs thinning.
     
  11. SproutsDad

    SproutsDad

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    I just looked at the screwfix website and there are many rave reviews on Leyland which goes by the name satinwood gloss which is a bit of a mix, is it satinwood or gloss?
    However, there are a few who give it a very poor rating for fading to a cream or even yellow within 6 months! I don't know, what is your experience of it a year or so after painting; is it still a good white colour?
    Thanks
     
  12. joe-90

    joe-90

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    It's Satinwood, not gloss. The darker the room, the more likely to yellow.
     
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  13. SproutsDad

    SproutsDad

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    Would you say that Dulux is equally or more likely to yellow in the same way and for the same reasons? But it sounds like Leyland is the best to use and also to get a good finish?
    Thanks
     
  14. joe-90

    joe-90

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    If you want one that definitely won't yellow as it's water based, then Sikkens Satura in the pale purple tin is good. Goes on quite well too.
     
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  15. SproutsDad

    SproutsDad

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    Thanks. Sikkens is definitely not cheap but that is secondary to it being the right product. It sounds like for a water based paint (and they will definitely stay white) it is still good to work with and produces a good finish.
    Products like Dulux Diamond have been recommended by some but then others give poor ratings for application and finish. My previous and only experience with water based white satinwood was 15 years ago with a Dulux, it was quite translucent and didn't block out what was under it. Hopefully the Sikkens is much better.

    If it was any other colour then the low solvent satinwood wouldn't be an issue but with white it seems a big problem - for all brands, reports of yellowing within months are quite discouraging. So it looks like water based from here on for white.
    Q - Do I apply the Sikkens water based in the same was - roller then brush out with a synthetic brush?

    Thanks again.
     
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