Ideal Classic FF240 Boiler - Cutting Out

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OP did have some confused description about bang sounds which lead us to think it is a circulation problem, but as he said eventually he would get lukewarm rads, so to me that is not for a blocked cold feed. I suspected the APS, the same principle as the solenoid.
 
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what would turning the head achieve? it would still pump in the same direction, to change the direction of flow you have to turn the complete pump

if you want a wilo pico pumping down you have turn the head so cable and connecter is facing down,and pump face is upright.
 
if you want a wilo pico pumping down you have turn the head so cable and connecter is facing down,and pump face is upright.
yes , and what direction is the pump or circulator moving the water in ??? it will never change unless you move the complete body of the pump
 
Still dont get this.
If any one of us was on site, we would have found that fault within 10 minutes. No firing so, as 112 suggested, you would have to test solenoid straight off.
Why did it take BG 2 hours? And why did the other guys not see it?

Where did the "kettling" come from?. Where did it go?

I reckon the GSV was changed, still did not work, so a discreet tap on the pump with one of these got it going: :)
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Still dont get this.
If any one of us was on site, we would have found that fault within 10 minutes. No firing so, as 112 suggested, you would have to test solenoid straight off.
Why did it take BG 2 hours? And why did the other guys not see it?

Where did the "kettling" come from?. Where did it go?
Because I don't think he had that many engineers look at it which I had a sneaky suspicion before, something doesn't sit right with me regarding all these engineers and incompetency tbh , so he laid it on a bit to get further help . That's IMO anyway :)
 
yes , and what direction is the pump or circulator moving the water in ??? it will never change unless you move the complete body of the pump

if you want the pump, pumping down, you turn the complete pump down wards, but you have to turn the head round or it will be upside down, the cable entry has to be downward, plus the digit display will be upside down unless turn the head.
 
It's not unusual to get a bit of gurgling on first switch on after summer shutdown.
It's not unusual for a CI heat exchanger to kettle without overheating.
You all jumped on the circulation bandwagon without any reason....Hence my comment about "Fixation".
I based my "guess" on what he said was now happening . ie Firing for between a few seconds and a few minutes. I have had the same problem on quite a few of these boilers ..SO lets say it was an educated guess !!:p
 
Just to let you know, all the symptoms I have given are accurate and I haven't embellished any facts.

I didn't want any help fixing the issue just a second opinion from people with knowledge as like most people I'm completely clueless about the dark arts of boilers, great when they work but God knows what happens when they don't.
Water and electricity are not a good combination!!

I'm pretty sure it's a perfect storm situation where the boiler/ system is approaching 20yr old and multiple things are about to fail.
Hence what may appear to be conflicting issues.

Today the heating would only come on if the water was also on, which suggests a 3 port vale issue apparently??
Fully powered it all down, left it for 30 mins and it seems fine again, switch sticking possibly??

I'm also sure the fan will fail in the next couple of months, god bless BG unlimited call outs :)

Plumber 1 - John)
We used his company to service/gas certificate an old house combi boiler. Wouldn't even investigate the fault, said replace it's not worth the hassle, mine or his.

2 - Dave)
Had a quick look at the boiler, couldnt even figure out it was switched off at the fuse. Thought it was a circulation problem, had a play venting the system then gave up after 20 mins.

3 - ??)
Emergency call out, happened to be working on a house 2 doors down when the pressure release valve in the airing cupboard exploded.
Seems the 2nd plumber had threaded the cap overtightening it.
Was unable to have more than a quick look at the boiler but said it was probably the fan.
But couldn't fit in for a at least a week, sedmed.like a nice guy.
Cost £40

4 - Mr Daley's apprentice)
Did a reasonably thorough investigation, or so it seemed. Decided it was the PCB at fault (general plumber get out of jail free card).
Would check with ideal in the morning about PCB.
Would get back to me next day with prices etc.
Despite chasing I never got a reply.

5 - Stuart)
Had a play with the boiler, decided it was the fan or air pressure switch.
Dismissed a circulation problem out of hand, but was impressed with my fancy pump.
Failed to put boiler cover or controls back on properly, also managed to damage my solid oak worktop.

6 - BG - also called Stuart)
Did a full investigation, laptop, multimeters, probes and actually seemed to know what he was talking about.
Noted the fan was noisy but was working within tollerences??

There still seems to be a bit of air in the system as I can hear it rushing through the pump in the airing cupboard from time to time.

Also apparently my piping is all plastic push fit, so wouldn't take a power flush, chemical & magnetic is the only option to clean the system??

I wasn't aware I could call BG out without being a customer or I would have called them much sooner.

Not to be rude about plumbers/boiler engineers but it seems like there are a lot of chancers with a little knowledge, beyond that they are stumped.

It's like calling AA/RAC out for a flat battery and them telling you to scrap the car to save the hassle.

So if it breaks again and isn't fixed within half hour I'm having it replaced.

Having a pregnant woman whining at you the heating isn't working isn't my idea of fun!.:ROFLMAO:
 
Imagine the nonsense if the boiler wasn't among the most straightforward to repair?!

It is fair to say that a system or boiler can have more than one problem, resulting in conflicting symptoms, which would explain the various suggestions here. But if that boiler was in the gas valve fault condition, any proper gas service engineer would have checked for voltage across the solenoid. Without needing a laptop :)
 
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Always willing to learn so...... you check voltage across the gas valve solenoid, boiler stops, you reckon you would be quick enough to tell if the aps had dropped out or the solenoid had shut ? I cant see how you could find this other than pulling the leads off real quick and checking resistances.
 

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