Ideal ConcordeWCF-255A - not firing up

[panamajack]

Desperate for advice.

Have had this Ideal boiler for a long time. About 10 years ago, the gas valve was replaced. Last week, the boiler went off, but the pilot light stayed on. After speaking to a gas fitter, he confirmed my suspicions, the gas valve.

All electrics are ok, thermostat is ok too. I ordered a new Honeywell valve and fitted it. Started the pilot light and then switched the boiler on and to my delight, it fired up instantly. I was over ther moon, but then about 20 seconds later it went out. The pilot light was still on. I turned the thermostat, checked the timer, checked everything, but everything was ok. It was the same fault again with a brand new gas valve.

Is it likely that I have bought a dud even though it was apparently new?

Any advice would be very much appreciated. Its freezing without the heating.

 

[doitall]

I think you need an RGI, I would be very surprised if it was a gas valve fault.

 

[panamajack]

RGI can't come out until after the holiday, well, he can, but I nearly fell through the tiled floor when he gave me the price.

That aside, I fitted the last gas valve which has worked faithfully all these years. The new one, although it appeared new, I have just looked at the packaging, it came in a cardboard box, ploythene wrapped around it and no packaging inside such as plenty of bubble wrap. The top part of the bax has a slight indent and a label which says, 'fragile, handle with care'. That in it'self tells me that this valve has probably been thrown around.

There is nothing else it can be. These boilers only have two components, the thermostat and the valve, that's it!

 

[steve32]

what is the voltage at the gas valve.

 

[panamajack]

Hi Steve32,

Voltage is 240, valve is 24volt exactly the same as the one that came out.

In fact, I'm beginning to wonder whether the valve is damaged coz the box it arrived in was only about an inch deeper than the valve with a couple of small pieces of bubble wrap. The box is damaged on the corners and the top of the box curved in. I think it has been thrown around the every sorting office from London to Liverpool. Of course, the sticker on the box wouldn't have helped as it stated, 'delicate, please handle with care' and we all know what that translates to in freight circles, 'Throw it all ove rthe 'uddy place!!!

Anyway, the seller has asked me to send it back so he can check it and exchange it.

 

[steve32]

did you use a meter to test voltage

 

[panamajack]

No, didn't use a meter, but there is power there. Power connector is straight from the wall and plugs into a standard 3 pin connector (the type used on a PC PSU). Checked with a neon tester and there was power from the wall, from the back of the socket where the thermostat is and on to the 240 side of the valve.

When the old valve was on, I by-passed the thermostat, but that didn't solve the problem.

 

[Andygasman2010]

Your neon screw driver only tells you that a live is there, you also need a neutral. You'd need a multimeter to check that.

Check resistance through the solenoid, compare the two gas valves. You also need a multimeter for this.

There's little else you can do really.

I have to add that you shouldn't be replacing a gas valve yourself, it's the job of an RGI. I guess you already know this though.

 

[Gasop]

Has anyone thought about testing the motorized
valve if S or Y plan.

Yeh! ok, the boiler would probably fire up for HW
(it is late and I've had a few

 

[Andygasman2010]

He's saying there is power to the gas valve which would only come from the Y or S plan valves. It could be gravity though, possibly a C plan.

 

[Gasop]

Yes missed the bit about the neon gadget.

 

[gas112]

your saying you have 240v but its a 24v gas valve in that case you have burnt it out .
ISs the plastic by the connection on valve black or blue

 

[doitall]

Honeywell Compact V4600a 1023 240v part No586121900

I would look closely at the Ranco stat. (C26 P0615)

 

[panamajack]

No, I checked that.

Although the valve is a 24 volt, the transformer is inside as on the outside is stamped near the connectors 240 volt. This was wired up the same way as the valve that came off, i.e. 240volt, but reduced inside to 24volt and that one had worked pefectly for the past 10-15years when I fitted it the same way as the original.

 

[panamajack]

Thank you everyone for your respinses, sorry, responses (had a drink or two).

This has got me totally baffled. I replaced this years ago, so it was a simple swap. I am hoping that it is a duff valve, I don't see what else it could be given the fact that there is nothing else in it. These boilers were basic, a valve and a stat. I've by-passed the stat.

The seller sent this, 'if this unit is faulty these thing happen sometimes as i am engineer as i have fitter lot of new parts to find they were faulty from factory please send back'. So, sounds quite common.