Just had a thought, there is what appears to be a large capacitor in the thermostat case. The wires go to the connectors on the valve. Its about 4cm x 13mm in dia. Could that have anything to do with it?
Ideal ConcordeWCF-255A - not firing up
- Thread starter panamajack
- Start date
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Stick part No 586121900 GCNo 41-409-69 in the right hand box
http://www.ideal-spares.com/boilerparts.asp
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the gas valve isn't coloured, it's all alloy. The only plastic part of it is where the spade end connectors are located and that's black.
The valve has the usual Honeywell barcode sticker on it which gives the model, spec., etc. On that same lable it says 24volt. On the part where the leads connect to the valve it has 220/240volt.
This problem started when the old valve was on connected to the boiler. I remember turning the stat down a couple of degrees and since then it has never worked. As regards the stat, I by-passed that, but still the boiler didn't start, unless it won't work without the stat. But I would have thought that by-passing the stat would have caused the boiler to fire up!
This problem started when the old valve was on connected to the boiler. I remember turning the stat down a couple of degrees and since then it has never worked. As regards the stat, I by-passed that, but still the boiler didn't start, unless it won't work without the stat. But I would have thought that by-passing the stat would have caused the boiler to fire up!
I hasten to add that the gas valve is exactly the same model as the old one - 240volt on the connector block and on the barcode label 24 volt - see pic in my folder named 'ideal gas boiler valve'
GC41 409 and I can't make the rest out
Everybody's help and input is much very much appreciated.
I have to go to sleep. Just looked in the mirror and I look like the walking dead and my eyes look like organ stops!
Everybody's help and input is much very much appreciated.
I have to go to sleep. Just looked in the mirror and I look like the walking dead and my eyes look like organ stops!
GCNo should be 41-409-69. but most of that range all had the same gas valve anyway.
It hasn't been converted to lpg or something stupid.
You have the wrong one. see my earlier post.
Goodnight, I'm going as well. another day tomorrow.
It hasn't been converted to lpg or something stupid.
You have the wrong one. see my earlier post.
Goodnight, I'm going as well. another day tomorrow.
I went to the link that you sent and can see the valve that came with the boiler originally is supposed to be 220/240volt. Shortly after I moved in the house, a 24volt was fitted by a gas fitter. When that died 10 years or so later, I replaced it with like for like (24volt) and got a gas fitter friend of mine at the time to ok it. It ran for 10 or 15 years until last week. The one that came off it was 24v, so I replaced it with same. I have uploaded a photo of it here showing the sticker
Your saying valve has a 24v sticker on it and the plastic by the terminals is black .
This doesnt add up black plastic by terminals equals 240v gas valve
Dark or light blue plastic by terminals equals 24v .
if you have put a 24v gas valve on instead of a 240v then you have burnt it out which 20 seconds of use would do
This doesnt add up black plastic by terminals equals 240v gas valve
Dark or light blue plastic by terminals equals 24v .
if you have put a 24v gas valve on instead of a 240v then you have burnt it out which 20 seconds of use would do
If it had been sent out with 24volt on the terminals or it was blue, I would have sent it right back. The connection block is black meaning 240volt and actually has 240 volt stamped on the side.
The valve that came off the boiler was exactly the same, 240volt on the connection block. The label has 24 volt on it the same as the one that came off and which had been working fine for 15yrs.
The part number is the same, the model number is the same. If it had been a blue connection block - 24volt and I had connected it up, 240 volt would have blown it in an instant and tripped the electrics in the house.
I have re-wired this house when I bought it 10 years ago, so putting this valve on should have been straightforward like the one that the one I put on 15 years back and which failed a week ago.
The valve that came off the boiler was exactly the same, 240volt on the connection block. The label has 24 volt on it the same as the one that came off and which had been working fine for 15yrs.
The part number is the same, the model number is the same. If it had been a blue connection block - 24volt and I had connected it up, 240 volt would have blown it in an instant and tripped the electrics in the house.
I have re-wired this house when I bought it 10 years ago, so putting this valve on should have been straightforward like the one that the one I put on 15 years back and which failed a week ago.
I have uploaded a photo showing the 240 volt black terminal and the barcode label on the old one showing the 24volt which is the same as the new one
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