ideal icos he18 LF error / warmsure - advice please

hmm i thnk you had better get used to shaking with rage if you are dealing with ideal, time to get your solicitor involved if you are serious about getting a full refund.
 
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The condesate trap on the Icos does not confrom to latest regulations, that state the trap must be a minimum of 75mm depth.

If you fit an external trap, it will meet the regulations, but will probably give you problems with the condensate draining away.

Unfortunately what you are experiencing is an everyday occurence with how Ideal treat customers.

Go to watchdog. It's about time Ideal were publically shamed for the carp they make and the rude aftersales service from their call centers.
 
more update on events in detail next week when I find out outcome but I'm thinking a new boiler is going to be the only solution as more parts changed today and problem re-occurs.

so question is what would be an equivalent replacement

1. from Ideal range (obviously that would not be my choice! ).

2. Other makes
 
who changed what parts, and have they actually found what the fault is ?
 
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I've come across this problem on several of my customers boilers, like your efforts i tried the new trap, flush the condensate pipe route to no avail.
one boiler i was back to once a week, after 4th visit i decided to try something drastic.
i found that there seems to be an air lock between the sump trap and the lower section of the condensate.
i cut an air break about 8" below sump trap using 40mm pipe and putting a 75mm running trap in the lower 21.5mm condensate pipework.
the trap on the boiler will stop poc (products of combustion) leaking from boiler, and lower running trap will stop nasty smells coming back in.
this boiler has been running now for 6 month with no problem.
 
who changed what parts ?

Last visit was from chief Warmsure engineer who checked gas pressure , changed valve, ignitor and new trap. Also said our condense pipe they we had altered was ok.

and have they actually found what the fault is ?
No

Toolie - interesting, I'll see what happens next week. I'll see if I can speak to engineer personally. Judging from the amount of posts on here you would have thought warmsure engineers should have experienced this problem a lot.
 
Air brake in pipework tends to work as secondary trap can cause airlock. Some local site to me now fit 35 mm tundish under boiler on condense line so no prob with airlock and boiler trap stops condense fumes coming out.
 
Air brake in pipework tends to work as secondary trap can cause airlock. Some local site to me now fit 35 mm tundish under boiler on condense line so no prob with airlock and boiler trap stops condense fumes coming out.

I now realise that this is what the 3rd engineer was suggesting. I went into a Plumbcenter the other day and asked if engineer had suggested putting a 'tensieve' on the line what do think they meant. They said do you mean tundish. I've no idea where I got my word from!

This could have progressed so much easier (one way or another) if Warmsure/Ideal had come back to do what they said they were going to, or at least communicated properly what the engineer had said. No reports given to customer, only notes on his report were 'condense line to be altered'.

can you suggest a part number for Tundish if we try this as DIY . ta

Thanks for all advice and patience so far.
 
don't have part numbers but all you do is cut condense a couple of inches below boiler, take out a section and on the bottom bit fit a 35-21.5 straight so the top bit just fits into it. This allows the condense to run into the bigger pipe with air able to fit around the side.
 
Boiler now been working for just over a week.

It took an email to CEO and MD's of Eaga to get it sorted.

A couple more visits from engineer and the last part replaced was spark generator and leads.

Relieved that managed to get it fixed before this spell of weather but five months, 7 or 8 visits and twice the price that a fixed repair should have cost is not really 'value for money'.
 
Last night our boiler stopped working and kept flashing the F/L error. I googled this problem and came on this website which provided many helpful tips on trying a few home checks before calling in the plumber. One of them was to check the condensate pipe for any blockage by ice.

The remedy for such a situation was most commonly to pour hot water on the condensate pipe and tapping it to release the ice. Since there was a very narrow space between the boiler and the wall, pouring water on the pipe was a bit difficult.

So we tried heating up the pipe with a blow dryer and tapping the pipe after every five minute of blasting it with hot air.. and it worked!

Thank you all for your helpful tips and suggestions! :)
 

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