I picked up some fuses but it still blows, makes a lovely electrical burning smell too. Certainly needs a new PCB. Their engineer is coming Saturday and they know it is suspect so he'd better have a pcb on the van. Hopefully he can wire in the Drayton hub too. Had a horrible thought that i'd reversed the L and N wires, but I checked and I still think the wiring is fine. Bit of a mystery tbh! Turns out some things are best left to the pros!
Ideal Instinct PCB
- Thread starter andyp187
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- #draytonwiser boiler instinct pcb
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That would not be the cause.
That would not be the cause.
Thanks Harry, that does make me feel better! Your tip about the guaranteed repair was a good one too. While more money than I wanted to pay it seems like the best bet at this stage. The ROI on my smart heating might be a year longer than i'd hoped!
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It beats buying and fitting a pcb, only to find there is another fault taking the pcb out.
The overheated section on the PCB are the connections to the gas valve.
Although I don't know the failure mode of the gas valve, this may also be something for your engineer to check, before plugging in a new PCB.
Although I don't know the failure mode of the gas valve, this may also be something for your engineer to check, before plugging in a new PCB.
Given the location I'd say it's almost certainly a bridge rectifier enabling the gas valve to be energised with DC (ie. rectified 240 V mains) so before having a new pcb fitted check the gas valve solenoid resistance (and to earth).
Could my wiring of the Drayton controller done it? This is what I had. Live coming from the brown and the two switching wires going to the room stat terminals on the ideal boiler. I have seen one picture of a single switching wire coming from the Drayton but their instruction seems to suggest there should be a switched live and return
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that link between L&1 should not be there, in pic one you have the N coneected to a grey wire then in pic the grey wire is connected to the live wire, when did you move them ?
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The link between L & 1 would only be required if there was a similar link on the Salus. Do you have a picture of your Salus wiring. Note your comment "Power needs to be put on to terminal 1 either by linking from L or a sperate supply", that's the grey wire for your system which is the separate supply.
The Wiser installation instructions are not very clear for a 1-channel installation. Often a Combi boiler will have voltage free switching which I suspect is your situation. In your case the function of the 1-channel Wiser hub is to "join" terminals 1 & 3 together when on and "disconnect" when off. The Wiser itself needs 240V power but that only goes to L & N. Effectively there is electrical isolation between L/N and 1/3.
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