I'm guessing this valve need's to be replaced .

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Can just the electrical part be changed or will it need to be the whole thing ?
 
Depends whether the problem is in the motor gearing or in the valve itself. You may find the difference in cost between the drive mechanism and the complete unit is negligible.
 
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yes you can just replace the head, but dont be tempted by cheap chinese imitations, go for a genuine Honeywell one, no need to drain anything, have to say though, I have never seen them making the noise that yours is, and I have changed many hundreds, but every day is a school day, not saying it cant be that
 
Before you condemn the valve, have you tried removing the drive motor and operating the valve with a set of pliers?
Isolate power to system, let it cool down
Remove cover (slacken wee screw on the lefthand end in your pic, shouldn't have to remove it completely then wriggle cover off)
You'll see 2 brass slotted screws at diagonal corners, loosen these then gently pull the whole motor carrier off.
You'll see a brass flatted shaft sticking up. Try and turn it with your pliers. If its really stiff then new valve (or strip and clean time). If it is fairly free then new mech time- much cheaper and easier.
Those Honeywell valves are very solid- I've got 3 I fitted 29 years ago and they're still fine (2 new motors but the valves themselves still work perfectly)
 
It's often just the motor that's become magnetised.
As said just remove the actuator and check the spindle is free...it only moves about 10 degrees.
Only use genuine motors..eg. the Drayton bagged motor from Screwfix.
Very very rarely the rubber ball detaches from the arm but you should be able to tell when you operate the spindle.
 
I got the cover off and thought i had found the problem , only 1 screw holding the motor on , on spending half an hour or so finding a suitable one , I discovered it only has 1 holding it in, the other side of the motor locates in a slot , it seems to be a rack and pinion type of arrangement , i have operated it several times now and can't seem to get it to make that noise again .
The speed the motor turns i don't think the noise would be the cog slipping , so a bit puzzled really , this valve is no more than 5 years old .
 
Ahh, you've separated the motor from the carrier. To check the valve you need to separate the carrier from the valve. Looking from above the motor you'll see 2 brass slotted nuts at diagonal corners- if you can't see them then take a pic from above & someone will put some highlights on.
 
Was the actuator loose on the valve body? If you remove the actuator from the valve, then it will make just this noise. The actuator needs to be on the valve to make the drive dog locate with the motor spigot. If it still makes that noise, then just replace the actuator as long as the shaft is free.
Edit to add. Do you know the history of this valve? Has it been repaired before with a new synchron motor? If so, then it may be a cheap chinese lookalike motor with nylon gearing that has stripped. What name is on the top of the synchron motor?
 
I loosened the 2 screws (see photo) on the carrier but couldn't seem to get the carrier off , it was loose but wouldn't pull out ,its all original as far as i know and the motor cog is brass , i can move the lever with the pinion easily by hand .

P1000974.JPG



P1000975.png
 
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Its much better manners to upload your pics onto this site than to link to some random hosting setup...
Yeah you usually have to wiggle the mounting a bit to get the mech off, don't start levering or hammering though.
 
Sorry , i did look at uploading photos directly yesterday but could only see a link option a link option ,, ok finally got it off and valve turns very easily with fingertips ,
 

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