Impartial advisor on works carried out?

[Chas72]

Hi

Long story short - we’ve had some building works carried out (large project) and have a final list of issues/ snags. Some major and some fairly minor.

We’re anticipating the builder who carried out these works will dispute some of them, in other words not want to put them right. He’s due to arrive on site with a private BCO, who already has a relationship with his company, to inspect the work with a view to final payment.

If we’re not able to reach an agreement on the snag list what would our next step be to resolve it? Would you speak to one of his Trade Bodies (The Guild of Master Craftsmen and the FMB), contact an independent BCO or failing that involve a solicitor?


Thanks for your help

 

[HERTS P&D]

Forget any trade bodies, if you can't agree while the builder is on site then get an INDEPENDENT BCO and take it from there.

Andy

 

[D_Hailsham]

A BCO will only tell you if the work complies with Building Regulations.

You probably need a Building Surveyor who is trained in dispute resolution. Give the RICS (Royal Institute of Chartered Surveyors) a ring on 0870 333 1600, explain your problem and they will advise what to do.

Obviously you and the builder will have to agree that you will abide by the surveyor's findings and how his charges (find out what they are first!) will be shared.

 

[Chas72]

Just wanted to run some questions by the forum as a sanity check. The following items are being defended by our building firm.

Is fitting Velux windows on top of batterns (and not the roof joists) the correct way to fit them?

Is there any justification in fitting stairs out of plumb front to back? (we're talking 15 mm)?

Would you expect a new T&G floor fitted over new joists that are strapped between new steels to creak loudly?

 

[D_Hailsham]

Is fitting Velux windows on top of battens (and not the roof joists) the correct way to fit them?

It's probably best to ask Velux; then the builder cannot argue it's "OK".

Is there any justification in fitting stairs out of plumb front to back? (we're talking 15 mm)?

Only if there was a wall, or something preventing it being plumb.

Would you expect a new T&G floor fitted over new joists that are strapped between new steels to creak loudly?

Not if the job had been done properly!

Were the joists checked for level and relative positioning (i.e one slightly lower/higher than the others)?

How has the floor been attacked to the joists - nails or screws?

 

[seasickstevie]

Is fitting Velux windows on top of batterns (and not the roof joists) the correct way to fit them?

Yes, that's the way I've always fitted them.
The flashing kit only allows for the thickness of the slate or tile. And it's necessary that the correct flashing is used for the different slate or tile used.

If the frame was fixed below the batten, the flashing kit would need to allow for differing thickness battens as well as different roof coverings . . . it doesn't.

Having said that I always choose the most substantial and suitable pieces of batten for under the window frame brackets, and the long screws that are provided go well into the spars or sub-frame, so in effect the battens just become 'spacers' to get the brackets to the correct height.

 

[Chas72]

Is there any justification in fitting stairs out of plumb front to back? (we're talking 15 mm)?

Only if there was a wall, or something preventing it being plumb.

It's an old house, +100 years, so the floor is off plumb where the stairs start rising.

Would you expect a new T&G floor fitted over new joists that are strapped between new steels to creak loudly?

Not if the job had been done properly!

Were the joists checked for level and relative positioning (i.e one slightly lower/higher than the others)?

How has the floor been attacked to the joists - nails or screws?

Not sure how the joists have been attached. The company owner, a chippy by trade, was talking about how over time and the joists and T&G dries out you can get movement that causes the floor to creak.

They've actually finished a job for one of our neighbours a couple of years ago. Hoping to have a word with them to see if their floor is creaking.

 

[D_Hailsham]

It's an old house, +100 years, so the floor is off plumb where the stairs start rising.

Sounds as if they assumed the floor was level and set out everything from the floor.

How has the floor been attacked to the joists - nails or screws?

Not sure how the joists have been attached.

I was asking how the T&G flooring was fixed to the joists.

 

[Chas72]

It's fixed by screws, fairly well spread out.

 

[D_Hailsham]

It's fixed by screws, fairly well spread out.

That's good. Nails tend to lift if the floor is uneven and then you get creaking floors (not good in the middle of the night ).

If you can identify exactly where the floor creaks, you may be able to stop it by adding additional screws to fix the floor to the joist.

 

[seasickstevie]

. . . adding additional screws to fix the floor to the joist.

Use a metal detector if you think there's any chance of pipes. Cables SHOULD be at least 50mm down.