Insulate garage door and fill gaps at side

[TryAgain1]

Could do with better pics of this end:

View attachment 403788

But basically that is where you adjust the spring tension. Somewhere in that block will be a grub screw or similar that clamps that block to the circa inch thick pole visible on the left of the pic (looks a bit like copper pipe in that pic) and you can also see a large silver lump with holes drilled in. You basic procedure is to find two metal rods that fit the holes well, insert one rod and hold it tense (in the opposite direction to what the spring will cause the block to spin ie in your case you will apply upwards pressure to the rod because the spring coil wants to rotate the block so the rod moves downward
When you have applied up pressure to the rod and released the grub screw, the block is free to turn. You push the one rod up until you can get the next rod in the next hole in the block, you insert the second rod, take the tension with it and remove the first, push the second rod up and rotate the block, then reinsert the first rod in the next hole

Thus you end up "walking" the block around in a circle using two rods alternately until you have tensioned the spring more. The more you load the spring to more it counterbalances the new weight of the door. Tension it just enough that it stays open

The crook pin, when inserted (see ‘crook pin(4).jpg attachment) does not lock off the shaft to prevent the shaft from rotating with the spring plug. I have successfully used the allen key and 1 toggle bar to rotate the spring plug upward (see ‘allen key and 1 pin.jpg attachment) but the shaft rotates about 90% of the rotation that the spring plug does so the spring is not tensioned very much if at all. I have used mawl grips to grip the shaft which act as shaft movement stoppers. But I do not know how to lock off the shaft such that the shaft cannot rotate at all. How do I lock off the shaft so that the shaft cannot rotate?


Please assist thanks