Insulating a single skin addition

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Hi any help appreciated , what’s the best way to insulate this **** box which will fingers crossed become a Utility room and downstairs washroom it’s a single skin building that was the original coal shed ,outside toilet and work room.

we brought the house 12 months ago and I’ve threatened divorce if it doesn’t look something like it by Christmas does it look possible to achieve anything in this timeframe

New PVC doors and windows being installed on Saturday floor being self levelled the following weekend after that will be stud work on the walls and loads of insolation as would rather loose slightly more space and it be warm and Damp free

please any help would be appreciated talk in simple terms as I’m a simple girl lol

so many other threads of red have mixed ideas of how to insolate a single skin room so I’m confused.com

Do I need to use a damp proof course or a vapour membrane or neither do I need to put insulation between the batons and over the top or just between them do I need to leave a cavity many thanks


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Stripping out the extraneous text, I think these are your three questions.

Do I need to use a damp proof course or a vapour membrane or neither ?

do I need to put insulation between the batons and over the top or just between them?

do I need to leave a cavity?

I think you are talking about insulating the walls.

Is that right?
 
Fix 25 x 50mm battens on the wall every 600mm, then 50 or 60mm(or what you choose) Celotex or similar insulation between them and over them - ie if 50mm between that would be 25mm over the battens. Then plasterboard.

Celotex right up against the wall, no gaps or cavity, tape all joints with foil tape, no vapour barrier required.
 
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If the walls arent damp, fit the insulation (celetex type), directly to the walls.

Glue it or use a few screws to hold it in place.
Fill all gaps with foam
Foil tape all joints.

Screw on 50 x 25 battens flat.
Additional battens and or double up as required for radiators, blinds etc
Get your electrician and plumber to put in 1st in the 25mm cavity

Fit 12.5mm plasterboard (foil backed if you want belt n braces to reduce risk of vapour getting through).

Skim
Paint
Have cup of tea.
 
Sorry to sound thick but would the 25mm cavity be between the celotex and the plaster board then as you said glue the celotex onto the block , how to I know if it has damp (the old plasterboard never had mould or anything before we ripped it off ) plumber has already done 1st fix so will I have to insulate around that ‍♀️ I think it will be skim paint have a bottle of vodka
 
Sorry to sound thick but would the 25mm cavity be between the celotex and the plaster board then as you said glue the celotex onto the block , how to I know if it has damp (the old plasterboard never had mould or anything before we ripped it off ) plumber has already done 1st fix so will I have to insulate around that ‍♀️ I think it will be skim paint have a bottle of vodka

My suggestion is celetex straight to wall, it doesnt need gluing as such it just needs to hold in position so it stays in place whilst its being done. The 50 x 25 battens will hold it all in place.

I would use a min 50mm thick insulation, more if poss.

Doing the insulation first means the whole wall gets covered, there are no thermal bridges.
Make sure every joint in the insulation is covered in foil tape, that acts as the vapour barrier.

If the wall was porous and letting water through it would clearly show damp.
 
Why would you want an unnecessary 25mm cavity taking space from the room?
 
I wouldn’t want a 25mm cavity unless it was for a technical reason like stopping damp or for the electric and plumbing not to be seen
 
Then dont have one.

Notch's description is merely one way of fixing the insulation, and so the cavity is a consequence of that, and not the purpose of it.
 

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