insulation question - first house

[^woody^]

Do a bit of gogling for " timber frame construction " and see the arrangement of the timber frame, insulation and the necessity for a vapour barrier

The vertical timbers are studs as in a " timber stud wall "

The crucial things to bear in mind are that you don't want any air pockets against the cold external wall or generally within the wall (condensation risk) and you want to prevent moist air from the room permeating into the timber frame (use of a vapour barrier or vapour check"

 

[4Qman]

Thanks for advice,

My plan is this.
1. Celotex from brickwork to stud
2. then fill the rest up to where the plaster will go with fibre quilt.
3. Use polythene plastic to cover the entire lot.
4. use foil backed plasterboard

But before all this im stripping and getting electrics sorted.

sound good?

Really do appreciate the help, you will see me about lots on this forum now. On a plus note I'm pretty handy with IT equipment so any PC problems let me know I can help

 

[ColJack]

feel free to drop into the computer sections of the forum and lend your expertese...

 

[4Qman]

feel free to drop into the computer sections of the forum and lend your expertese...

Will do mate, I will be hanging around here sucking all the advice I can for my house so ill help where i can.

In middle of gutting the rooms so be loitering around later

 

[ajrobb]

I wonder, with 225mm depth you might be good with just mineral wool - still way better insulation than new builds and much cheaper than Celotex. Perhaps Crown DriTherm batts against the masonry as they are treated against moisture and hanging quilt between studs. If you have poly sheet VPL you can save money and use plain plasterboard. Anyway, it's probably not a good idea to have two VPLs.

Have you considered warm-roof insulation too (above the existing roof)?

 

[mointainwalker]

@ ajr (and others)

i'm a bit surprised at the replies. I thought it was always recommended to leave a gap between insulation and outer-skin ( except specialist cavity-insualtion ) so that if any condensation did occur, it wouldn't risk transmission to innner-skin via the insulation.

 

[ajrobb]

except specialist cavity-insulation

But, Crown DriTherm is specialist cavity insulation.

 

[mointainwalker]

Oh, I see. I wasn't familiar with the product and didn't in fact know that there were non-hygroscopic products on the market.

Thanks

 

[Monkeh]

feel free to drop into the computer sections of the forum and lend your expertese...

Will do mate, I will be hanging around here sucking all the advice I can for my house so ill help where i can.

Just watch out for the Mac troll.

 

[4Qman]

except specialist cavity-insulation

But, Crown DriTherm is specialist cavity insulation.

Hi there,

Am I correct saying I will use this stuff up too the stud beams then use Celotex up too the plasterboard.

Also is that stuff ok to use on the celing?

Thanks for advice

 

[Deluks]

except specialist cavity-insulation

But, Crown DriTherm is specialist cavity insulation.

Hi there,

Am I correct saying I will use this stuff up too the stud beams then use Celotex up too the plasterboard.

Also is that stuff ok to use on the celing?

Thanks for advice

Any combo you like really, you have enough space that whatever insulation you use it will be toasty. The vapour barrier is the main bit though, and as mentioned, you can either use foil back PB, poly, or celotex flush with the studs and taped.
I too would be wary of using insulation against the exterior wall, but your exterior slates already provide weatherproofing to the outside so moisture ingress would be nil, at least while the slates are in good order.
For the ceiling, only use fibrous insulation if you have a enough room. anything under say 250mm then go with about 150mm deep foil backed boards.

 

[4Qman]

Thanks Deluks,,

Here are some new pics.


I will use Knauf FrameTherm Slab 38 against wall to stud then Celotex GA4000 Insulation Board up to the plaster board. I will tape the celotex to the timber with foil and use foil backed PB.

With the celing does this sound ok 'Rockwool Roll Loft Insulation 170mm x 1200mm (Combi Cut) x 2.8m'






As you can see there is lots of room to insulate properly. Believe it or not I only filled 1 black bag of insulation from what you see. the Celing had NONE


Also can I post links to shops on this website as will be easier to link to the product as ill be ordering tomorrow.

Thanks again, nearly there with all my questions

 

[mointainwalker]

Insulation boards will cost between 5 and 10 times more than equally insulating fibre-wool rolls( according to what offers available in your local stores).

Financial advantage hugely on side of fibre.. There is a disadvantage in that the fibre rolls will be significantly wore difficult to fix into position and hold upright.

N.B. My price comparison was for roll material. Fibre batts ( stiffened self-supporting fibre-material ) will cost a lot more.

In your position i would look at my walls/studs etc and work out if I could staple the wool-roll somehow and still be able to fit everything together.

If I could, then I would buy the thickest roll I could get - probably 200 mm - and then fix that to the interior wall studs. If you are not using special non-hygroscopic wool, then I would want to leave a gap to the outside wall.

Finish off with foil-backed pb, taped seams. to act as a vapour-barrier.

 

[Deluks]

If money comes into it then I'd go rockwool slabs for the walls, and save the board materials for the roof, as by the looks of it you will need to completely fill between and under those roof joists, right up to and touching the deck. A minimum of about 30mm underneath the joists.

Any quilt/roll materials would best be bought in with the paper backing for easier fixing to the back of the studs.

 

[mointainwalker]

@Deluks

My experience is that fibre-roll is always sold with Kraft paper ( vapour barrier) except for the 40/50 mm stuff where they are specifically pushing it as internal-wall sound-insulation.