I've changed the output polarity from 0=POS to 1=NEG and wired the sounder to the panel as shown in the images, left the jumpers in and still getting the pop sound when the sounder is supposedly active, it also pops again when the sounder is off.The flex has open collector outputs with jumper links to connect the collector of the output transistor to a pull up resistor. The little black jumpers are on the pcb just behind the output screw terminals.
The jumpers are only left in the open state when the connected device has its own pull up, which may have a different voltage level. In most cases for alarm Sounders, the jumpers can be left fitted.
I'll look into getting one, I also want to say that I managed to wire a kinetic external sounder to the outputs and it worked good as gold, I'm really confident it is the sounder not being compatibleYou need to check you are getting 12v at op1 and op2,
Think you can eliminate the sounder being the issue as you can get that working when you supply it with 12v
Multimeters are not that expensive and are a useful fault finding tool
I can wire the sounder to the output but I have to wire the F terminal (strobe) to 12v (panel) on the control panel then wire the C terminal (sounder) to the 0v (panel) and make a link from the S terminal to the F terminal in the sounder, but I want the strobe and sounder to run independentlyIt is possible
It looks to me like you're not getting 12v at op1 or op2 for some reason , if you can get 12v at them there is no reason why this sounder should not work.
Hopefully galaxyguy might have a trick up his sleeve....
I can wire the sounder to the output but I have to wire the F terminal (strobe) to 12v (panel) on the control panel then wire the C terminal (sounder) to the 0v (panel) and make a link from the S terminal to the F terminal in the sounder, but I want the strobe and sounder to run independently
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