Invisible nailing

[boyesey]

I am planning to lay new floor boards and I would like to leave the boards exposed (stained and varnished). Has anyone had any experience of invisible nailing the boards throught the tongue into the joists? I don't want rows of nails showing?

Also if I get new boards from a timber yard will they all shrink, and warp etc..

 

[nstreet]

I used this brand.

Nailing through the tongue at an angle of about 45 degrees is the usual way to invisibly nail. Hire the proper tool for the job if possible. The boards shouldn't shrink if they have been seasoned properly. Always open the pack and lay them flat in the house for a few days before using to acclimatise the boards. This also will rduce shrinkage.

 

[Johnboy54]

No, never seen that particular brand before. That's what I call 'invisible'!

 

[WoodYouLike]

Also if I get new boards from a timber yard will they all shrink, and warp etc..

Always check how the timber yard stores the wood! And, if possible, check the moist content of the boards before you install them (after leaving them to acclimatize for a few days in the room you plan to install them.

P.S. for installing directly onto the joist, the boards must be a minimum of 19mm thick, the joist must be not further apart than 30 - 35 cm heart to heart.

 

[ABN]

P.S. for installing directly onto the joist, the boards must be a minimum of 19mm thick, the joist must be not further apart than 30 - 35 cm heart to heart.

How important is the 30-35 cm?
The joists under the floor I'm starting to lay are upto 45cm apart. Wondering if I should put a dummy joist, say a long piece of 2x2 between the joists and screw into that as well. (I'm secret screwing rather that nailing)

Second question. Keep reading that you should check the moisture content of the wood. How does one actually do that?

 

[WoodYouLike]

How important is the 30-35 cm?

Very!. 30 - 35cm heart to heart means even less 'open' space, so if yours are 45 apart then heart to heart is even more.
Wood is very strong, but it has its limits.

Wondering if I should put a dummy joist, say a long piece of 2x2 between the joists and screw into that as well. (I'm secret screwing rather that nailing)

Dummy joist are a good idea, secret screwing the floor, if I understand you correctly, is a definite No No! The nails allow the wood to work (expand/shrink) with the normal changes in temperature and humidity, screws don't and your floor might end up buckled, cracked, cupped and even split. (Trust me, we have seen these results!)

Second question. Keep reading that you should check the moisture content of the wood. How does one actually do that?

With a moist measurer, but I know most DIY-ers don't have that. Ask your supplier how it has been stored, leave it to acclimatize for 3 - 4 days. If you notice width differences between the boards than something is not correct.

 

[ABN]

secret screwing the floor, if I understand you correctly, is a definite No No! The nails allow the wood to work (expand/shrink) with the normal changes in temperature and humidity, screws don't and your floor might end up buckled, cracked, cupped and even split. (Trust me, we have seen these results!)

Was intending to secret screw for various reasons
1) Some boards are slightly bowed, would be straightened using floor clamps at time of laying, so felt they would hold the wood more securely.
2) Less chance of missing the nail and bruising the boards.
3) There are electrics and water pipes under the floor and screwing would have enabled the floor to be lifted without damage in case of emergency.
4) Less noisy for the poor long suffering neighbours.
5) Gave me a reason to by a cordless drill/driver.

Many thanks for the warning, will have to rethink and replan it seems.

 

[chappers]

hire a portanailer much easier and quicker, no chance of bruising the wood then