Is there anything wrong with this work - with pics

nothing wrong with plastic installs as long as they are done right.
i useally use compression joints rather than plastic and try to run the plastic in one length minimising the amount of joints.
 
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nothing wrong with plastic installs as long as they are done right.
i useally use compression joints rather than plastic and try to run the plastic in one length minimising the amount of joints.

You were slagging off compression fittings on your earlier post :confused: Why do you use compression on plastic but not on copper?
 
because i prefer solder over compression. but on many showers etc i have fitted and access in loft or stud walls access is a no go plastic is ideal so you can't solder plastic so i use compression over plastic pushfit.
but as i said pushfit fit is ok as long as mi are followed but least i know if a compression is going to weep it will still be secured by the olive as pushfit can blow right off if grab ring fails.
 
ok thanks. Don't suppose you know the differenxe between PEX and PB barrier plastic pipe do you?

Also, I presume it is ok to join copper to plastic with either compression or pushfit?

Apologies for all the questions, I am thinking on my feet and come across questions I need answering as I am going on. I agree with all the advice on here and will rip out the current setup and replace. As someone else said (or it may have been you) there are too many joints.
 
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PEX is cross-linked polyethylene. Through one of several processes, links between polyethylene molecules are formed to create bridges (thus the term "cross-linked). This resulting material is more durable under temperature extremes, chemical attack, and better resists creep deformation, making PEX an excellent material for hot water and other applications.


pb is polybutylene which is mostly cross-linked as well.
 
It maybe leaking because it has the wrong style of nut compressing onto the coupling, it looks like a different style of nut from the opp side of the joint.
Pete
 
It maybe leaking because it has the wrong style of nut compressing onto the coupling, it looks like a different style of nut from the opp side of the joint.
Pete

You are 100% correct there. Just been up and had a look, it is different.
I have been sat on my knees looking at all the pipes for a couple of hours wondering what to do and what to change and never noticed it. it's amazing what a fresh pair of eyes can see!!! :LOL:
 
How flexible really is this PEX plastic pipe. Would I really beable to shape this pipe without making any joints?
 
well you can't do tight 90 bends with it but if clipped etc it is quite flexible
 
I have been sat on my knees looking at all the pipes for a couple of hours wondering what to do and what to change and never noticed it.

I wish I got paid if I procrastinated like that! (been working in a very warm attic all day)
 
Rip the lot out and start again...your plumber is a cowboy. :rolleyes: Probably had a heart attack from the stress of his previous customers complaints.

Chuck out the bodged pushfit and compression fittings and use solvent weld waste fittings (and prepare them properly with the cleaning fluid).

Re-do the copper pipework so that it's suitably supported and insulated as necessary ie so thay don't bang/resonate with the water flow and the cold potable water isn't heated by the hot pipework.

The aluminium safety tag must not contact the copper pipe.

Chuck out the flexible pan connector...it's a sure sign of p**s poor planning. Use proper purpose designed fittings not a diy effort.

As for fitting the waste pipe through the center of the joists will the gradient be correct? Will there be sufficient room for thermal expansion etc.

PETER PERFECT!!!!
 
I think I would prefer to see it left as it is rather than being redone in pushfit plastic!
 

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