Is this a simple install?

[budest]

Hey guys,

As the title asks, is this a straight-forward install for a handyman or would I need an electrician? I am looking to replace the top fitting with the bottom one. I am just not familiar with the bottom one's wiring.

Thanks.

 

[sparkwright]

It SHOULD be relatively simple.

HOWEVER, the new fitting is so badly designed that to get the wires from the ceiling into that silly connector box - you or anyone would struggle to do it CORRECTLY AS INTENDED.

You did ask...!

 

[budest]

It SHOULD be relatively simple.

HOWEVER, the new fitting is so badly designed that to get the wires from the ceiling into that silly connector box - you or anyone would struggle to do it CORRECTLY AS INTENDED.

You did ask...!

I appreciate the response.

 

[Robin0577]

Sparkwright's answer is 100% correct, but could be a bit more informative....

The ridiculously small terminal block provided with the new light can only accommodate a single cable as opposed to the two you have in your loop-in ceiling rose. To fit the new light, you're going to have to find a way of replicating the ceiling rose connections elsewhere so that you can bring a single cable into the new light.
The new light looks a bit short on space, so my solution would be to use an ultra slim maintenance free junction box that you can push through the hole into the ceiling, leaving a short length of T&E to connect to your new light. A Quick Wire (tm) would be ideal here, because there's hardly anything more compact available.
My way is not the only way, but ultimately you are going to need a way of making more connections than you can possibly make in the tiny silly white box.

Edit to add: I can't see the ceiling rose connections all that clearly, but it looks like it might be a parallel connection to another light as opposed to the standard loop in arrangement? If that is the case, (and you'd need to be sure before you start) you'd need the Quick Wire Splitter as opposed to the Quick Wire switch and load box.

 

[JohnW2]

.... an ultra slim maintenance free junction box that you can push through the hole into the ceiling ...

What do you have in mind? There are few types of MF junction boxes around, and I'm not sure that I would describe any as "ultra-thin".

A J803/J804 will usually fit through a hole in a ceiling for a downlight, but not through the usual sized hole through which cables enter a ceiling rose.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Robin0577]

What do you have in mind? There are few types of MF junction boxes around, and I'm not sure that I would describe any as "ultra-thin".

A J803/J804 will usually fit through a hole in a ceiling for a downlight, but not through the usual sized hole through which cables enter a ceiling rose.

Kind Regards, John

Quickwire is about the slimmest I can think of... https://www.quickwire.co.uk/product/quickwire-switch-load-junction-box/

Even then, a little making good may be required. The downside of Quickwire is that you have to select the right type in advance, they can't be reconfigured on site.

 

[JohnW2]

Quickwire is about the slimmest I can think of... https://www.quickwire.co.uk/product/quickwire-switch-load-junction-box/ Even then, a little making good may be required.

That's certainly quite small - I don't think appreciably 'thinner' than a J803/J804 (so not really "ultra-thin") but being of a much smaller cross-section (23mm x 31mm) will go through a much smaller hole - but still quite possibly not (without 'hole enlargement') through the current hole that the cables go through.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Robin0577]

I quite agree it's not a perfect solution. There MAY even be enough space inside the OP's new fitting to accommodate a Quickwire there, I can't tell from the photo.
In a class 1 fitting I'd be happy to use terminal blocks or Wagos contained inside the fitting itself, but in this case that would compromise the double insulation.
You could, I suppose, do as the manufacturer has done and use insulated crimps with heat shrink as the secondary layer, but I'm not entirely comfortable recommending that as a DIY solution. I would prefer an off the shelf certified product.

 

[securespark]

I effing HATE those stupid enclosures with the rubbery tube. They're a complete pain unless you only have one cable.

People who design light fittings should be forced to put one up. Then and only then will they understand how ridiculous some of their designs really are in the real world.

 

[JohnW2]

People who design light fittings should be forced to put one up. Then and only then will they understand how ridiculous some of their designs really are in the real world.

Indeed - and whilst you are at it, you should similarly force those who design cars (and many other products) to try to undertake maintenance on what they have designed.

A few months ago, it took me at least a couple of days (many hours) to replace the alternator in my wife's car - a job which ought not not to have involved anything more than undoing, and then replace three or so nuts. The 'design' really had to be seen to be believed, and required various tasks to be undertaken totally 'blind' ('by feel'), whether from above or below the car!

Kind Regards, John

 

[plugwash]

Even then, a little making good may be required. The downside of Quickwire is that you have to select the right type in advance, they can't be reconfigured on site.

And many configurations simply can't be accomdated at all, for example if 3+E is used for the switch drop (either to take a neutral to the switch position or to bring two switched lives up the same cable).

 

[markyd1]

I refuse to fit them...Pain in the ass....get yourself a new fitting