is wiring on cooker switch separate

8 May 2006
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United Kingdom
got this ugly thing on the wall needs to be moved.

My Q, would anyone familiar with these know if there are 2 sets of wires to each switch inside.

We would hope to have a cooker switch separate and underneath the worktop have a plug switch for washing machine.
I could have new equivalent of this switch and drill hole in worktop to feed washing machine but I don't want to do that, rather have 2 separate if that's possible.

Or are these switches bridged inside so need to fused spur to a socket.?

The problem with this currently is socket is above cooker (steam from cooking etc raising problem) and no under counter power for mashing machine.

thank you
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There is likely one supply cable, and a cable running from it to the cooker. The socket is integral and not on a seperate supply.
We would need more details ,but it's highly likely that you could change the existing for a single gang isolation switch ,and fit a socket below the worktop connected via a dual outlet connection unit .
Typically there is a 32 amp supply to a cooker, this will normally go first to the isolator as you show, and then a cooker connection unit, and then cooker, but in some cases there is no cooker connection unit.

Where the cable comes out of the wall if no cooker connection unit one could fit a twin back box, 1662720755383.pngand a cooker connection unit 1662720823838.pngplus a socket for washing machine, but have to consider total load, the washing machine will use a lot of power to heat water, but normally for a short time, and in the main we don't cook and wash at the same time, so should be OK, but a washer/dryer is a different story, on the drying cycle it can run for a long time, and could result in the overload being activated.

With a MCB or a RCBO in the main no problem, just need to wait to cool, then reset, with a fuse 1662721197777.pngit can get expensive renewing them, around £3 a pop, pun intended.

The problem today is repairs are OK, but new must comply with regulations, looking at the age of the cooker isolator one questions if RCD protected, if not this can have a knock on effect, which can end up expensive.
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I'm not clear why you can't just have a new cooker panel below the worktop to serve the cooker and the washing machine.

Also, will you need to extend or re-route the existing supply cable - and if so, how do you intend doing this?

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