Japanese saws

[^woody^]

Has anyone used or swapped to Japanese saws for cross, rip and tenon/fine cutting, and reaped any benefits, or are they no better than traditional Western types?

I am initially interested in trying out some dovetail (dozuki) types, as I need to replenish some existing tenon, dovetail and veneer saws so wondered if the jap saws were worth a go.

Also the larger Ryoba saw looks impressive for rip cutting, but it's not clear how they handle thicker timber sections with the shorter blade length compared to a traditional 20 or 22" saw.

 

[EddieM]

Different stance required as the cut on the pull stroke, mustn't use very gentle pressure on push stroke as they're easy to break. With practise can produce very fine cuts.

 

[Ryler]

The Gyokucho 372 as mentioned in the video below. Seems to be King.
Note the magnet guide he uses.
10,000 dovetails and still sharp as a razor.
And is a lot cheaper than my Lie Nielson.
The teeth are differentially impulse hardened, one by one, bringing the outer surfaces to RC68 or more whilst still leaving the root of the tooth soft and therefore much less prone to fracture - not unlike tiny Japanese sword blades. They are equally happy working in softwoods or temperate hard woods and can, with care and a light touch, be used on exotic timbers too.

The Japanese use pull saws and pull planes out of courtesy.
So as not to hit anyone.

 

[^woody^]

Banzai!

I've just dived straight in and ordered a set, as I don't think I've heard a bad thing about them after several hours you-tubing

 

[EddieM]

Banzai!

I've just dived straight in and ordered a set, as I don't think I've heard a bad thing about them after several hours you-tubing

Did you buy real ones or cheapo Chinese knock offs

 

[^woody^]

I think they are Japanese design made in India by a German firm using Chinese labour and Swedish steel. I'm not quite sure.
But they have Japanese names so that's good enough for me.

 

[EddieM]

I think they are Japanese design made in India by a German firm using Chinese labour and Swedish steel. I'm not quite sure.
But they have Japanese names so that's good enough for me.

Ohhh... you know is all in the quality of the steel. Well see how you get on I suppose, they should if any good give razor sharp fine cuts for a long time.

 

[^woody^]

Well they are my first set so I'll see how I get on with them, and if I do I can check out the various other makers if these are not lasting, but I do like the look of some of the other styles - its just the costs that seem prohibitive, but if they do last then cost would not be that bad.

 

[EddieM]

Well they are my first set so I'll see how I get on with them, and if I do I can check out the various other makers if these are not lasting, but I do like the look of some of the other styles - its just the costs that seem prohibitive, but if they do last then cost would not be that bad.

You can fork out over £200 for some Japanese chisels, that's for one chisel.

 

[^woody^]

You can fork out over £200 for some Japanese chisels, that's for one chisel.

No way. I'd want a Nissan 4x4 for that much.

I'm having a bit of a rant about "expensive" tools in another thread, and with chisels, a well honed £10 one is going to perform just the same. OK, there may be some difference in metal hardness but not £190 worth of difference.

I'll just keep to the saws for now.

 

[Notch7]

Modern UK carpenter chisels are utter rubbish, low hardness as most end used for opening paint tins

Decent ones are the old Stanley 5001 or 5002 or even footprint.....all ebay hobbies.

 

[EddieM]

Quite fancy some Pfiel chisels. Swiss.

 

[^woody^]

I got some Fatmax chisels a couple of years ago on the basis of many people saying that they held their edge, and they certainly do.