Kettle lead power supply to LCD TV

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Hi,

I've just got a new TV and wall mounted it. The power cable it has come with is too short (1.5m) so I have managed to find a longer one (3m). There is a difference in the size of the wire, the original is 0.75mm2 with a 10 AMP fuse and the new longer one is 1.00mm2 with a 5 AMP fuse.

My question is, is it OK to use this new cable and change the fuse to the 10 AMP one?

Thanks in advance,

Dan
 
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Does the IEC connector (kettle plug) have a rating stamped on it?
 
Chances are you won't have to change the fuse at all, give it a go, as long as it doesn't pop on startup, you are home and dry, it'll take way below 5A when running
 
Chances are you won't have to change the fuse at all, give it a go, as long as it doesn't pop on startup, you are home and dry, it'll take way below 5A when running

I thought about that after punching submit

My 50" plasmas only rated 569w, which is about 2½ amps.
 
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The IEC is 10A, the plug has 5A and a 5AMP fuse but I can change that.

So it should be fine?
 
Grr, it really annoys me when people call an IEC plug a kettle plug :evil:
 
5 amp is ample you could easily get away with a 3amp,But why they have supplied a lead with a 10amp fuse is beyond me but at the end of the day the tv has internal fuses anyway.
I always fit 3amp fuses to my equipment and when i used to repair tv's it's suppising how many had 13amp fuses in the plugs thats why iv'e got a bucket full.


andy
 
All IEC's are bought in by manufacturers of TV's etc.

IEC's are rated at 10amps. The suppliers fit a 10amp fuse and use 10amp rated cable, generally.

As said, TV's have their own internal fuses to protect the TV, and the cable is protected by the 10amp fuse.

Not ideal, but pretty standard practice these days.
 
This is what the TV uses power wise: Power Consumption (W) 175

So I should just leave the 5AMP in and it should be fine?

Thanks

Dan
 
As has been said, a 5 Amp fuse should be more than adequate when the thing is running, but the inrush current on some power supplies can take out the plug top fuse.

We use several different switch mode power supplies with outputs in the range of 25 - 90 Watts. All of them are fitted with 5 Amp plug top fuses as they would pop a 3 Amp fuse on a cold start up.

There are different forms of IEE connectors. Lower rated ones commonly used for IT equipment are generally rated at 5 - 6 Amps and have straight sides.

Higher rated ones have a notch in the long side of the free connector that mates with a nib in the appliance connector. These are generally rated up to 10 Amps or so. This is the form usually used for appliances like kettles.

The upshot is a lower rated lead will not fit a higher rated appliance, but a higher rated lead will fit the connector of a lower rated appliance.
 
Others can be rated upto 15A:
http://cpc.farnell.com/CN02276/cabl...u=schurter-r47820100&_requestid=88908[/QUOTE]
I was under the impression that the standard for those connectors only allowed up to 10A

Assuming it was a typo by CPC I decided to read the datasheet. What I found was it seems the north american approvals bodies they use rate the connector at 15A but the other bodies (including VDE which afaict was the only european approval body on the list) only rate it at 10A.

I would be very dubious about using IEC C13/C14/C15/C16 connectors for more than 10A even if a specific brand does claim that some north american approval bodies approved thier connectors for more.
 
Higher rated ones have a notch in the long side of the free connector that mates with a nib in the appliance connector. These are generally rated up to 10 Amps or so. This is the form usually used for appliances like kettles.

The upshot is a lower rated lead will not fit a higher rated appliance, but a higher rated lead will fit the connector of a lower rated appliance.
Wrong, both of those connectors are rated for 10A at least most of the time, you may see the odd lower rated one from a cheapskate manufacturer and maybe very occasionally a higher rated one (though as I said in my previous post it seems only a subset of the approvals bodies were prepared to approve it for more)

The difference between the C13/C14 (without notch) and the C15/C16 (with notch) is the temperature rating.

There is a 16A variant of the connector but it is a completely different shape (it is often seen as an outlet on larger UPS units and i've also seen it on some very high end PC power supplies).
 

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