Kingfisher MF Boiling Up

Nothing has changed, so I still suspect the PCB/temperature control parts and there is always a slight possibiity that the gas valve is sticking on.

Silly point but can you check that the flow pipe from the boiler is the hottest one when its firing?

Tony
 
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And there's not something like a Drayton Tapstat on the cylinder return.

The stat on the return by the boiler would be connected with the frost stat, the frost stat turns the boiler on and the pipe stat turns it off again at a set temperature.

You say there's no cylinder stat so the boiler is controlled by it's own stat.

Interestingly, if the boiler is still boiling and overflowing you should still get the banging and violent explosions as the boiling water goes over the vent pipe.

Where is all the extra water coming from thats going out the overflow pipe, em more thought needed.

I would still want the gasman to check the gas valve and pressure.

Thanks DIA,

No there is no stat on the cylinder return other than the one in the garage which is linked into the frost stat.

Yes the boiler is controlled by it's own stat. At present it is turned to 6 O'Clock and it still boils up.

There is still a lot of noise (whooshing water/steam and loud gurgling and 'blowing' noises) in the pipes and loft when it boils up but not the 'club hammer against a scaffold pole' banging and clanging noise that we got before cleaning the system.

The water from the overflow is presumably because when it boils the boiling hot water and steam is ejected out of the expansion pipe over the header tank which then fills up rapidly and over flows out of the fascia overflow pipe, there is only one expansion pipe over the header tank presumably because the CH & HW are combined? The level of water in the expansion tank is about three inches above the outlet which feeds the CH & HW system and three inches below the overflow outlet.

Thanks,

Steve
 
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I still have no reason to think its not just a boiler fault!
 
I still have no reason to think its not just a boiler fault!

Thanks Tony,

Picking up from your earlier post I will check which HW pipe is the hottest but how would I know which is the flow to the cylinder and which is the return? (I just presumed the return would be colder which is the one with the pipe stat on in the garage)

With reference temperature control would you recomend changing the front control panel or pcb first?

Thanks,

Steve
 
When the water starts boiling and blowing over. What happens to the boiler.
 
When the water starts boiling and blowing over. What happens to the boiler.

Hi DIA,

The boiler keeps going, I have to shut it off by pressing the CH or HW (or both depending whats on) buttons on the programmer.

Oddly if I then press the CH and/or HW programmer buttons immediately after pressing them to turn the boiler off, the boiler does not fire up. I'd have thought the boiler would fire up straight away again, but it doesn't.

There has been the odd occasion when we've been out, forgot to turn off the CH & HW and the red lock out light is on the boiler when we get back and the re-set button has to be pressed. I'm presuming it's been boiling like mad whilst we were out and finally locked-out.

When we're in the house of course it never gets beyond a few seconds of boiling before we turn it off.

Thanks,

Steve
 

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