kitchen installation

If you've paid these guys you would have every right to pursue them through the courts for a refund and compensation to have that stuff put right.

The wiring is not only illegal it's lethally dangerous. They look like they can't even wire a plug, never mind do serious electrical work. Look at the way the wires are hanging out of the dishwasher plug.

The dishwasher's not installed correctly at all and should be standing on its feet, not on blocks of wood. This will cause vibration and may limit the airflow to the machine resulting in risks of overheating. The manufactures do provide full instructions for installation for a reason!

The situation with your wall is totally unacceptable.

The stopcock must absolutely be 100% accessible. As a previous poster said, it's there for a reason to isolate your house from the water mains if something bursts.

I'd consult a good solicitor and take a LOT of photographs. Those guys ought to be sued.

Also you said

"The two ends of the extension lead powering the oven/hop/dishwasher the exposed flex is from the oven. I can't actually reach the socket it's about 6" under the worktop, I got the photo by lying under the base unit. The extension lead was then tucked into the back of the oven base unit. "

Could you describe this more fully / provide photographs? That is beyond sloppy, it's actually ridiculous and extremely dangerous.

I would advise you not to use the oven under any circumstances if it is connected via an extension lead. You could cause a fire. I would also refrain from using the dishwasher until the electrical work is put right.

1) Call your solicitor
2) Get a letter sent to the company in question and give them a short period to come up with an acceptable settlement
3) If that fails, take them to court, they wouldn't have a leg to stand on. That is a total mess. You shouldn't have to put up with that or pay to put it right.

I'd estimate that could cost thousands to put right. You shouldn't be out of pocket for any of it and those cowboys deserve to pay up. That's not only a rip off it could actually kill you or cause your house to burn down.

Also, and this is important and should be done urgently:

Get an electrician in to survey the problems. I suspect that they've also over-fused your fuse box i.e. put in higher rated fuse wire than should be there. Particularly if the fuses were blowing quickly. There is a reason why fuses blow and it's not because the fuse is faulty.

Keep the bill and submit it to the company for payment together with your solicitor's letter.
 
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I've had the companies surveyor round here this morning, he's taken more photographs and written a full report, he also noticed that the consumer box needs upgrading.

He has also advised that the appliences are not used. I have to wait until at least monday for the company to provide me with the info on how they're going to fix it.

Thanks to everyone who commented, it's provided me with the faults to point out to the surveyor (in case he would have missed them).
 
Good luck on Monday! If they do not come up with an acceptable solution, definitely go legal. Accept nothing short of a full and immediate resolution. You've paid good money to get this done and, frankly quite a high price given the scale of the job.

If they care about their reputation they'd resolve this and compensate you fully for your troubles.

Note on the electrical 'installation' :

Your dishwasher and washing machine should be wired to sockets that are controlled by a switch over the counter, or their sockets should be easily accessible.

The hood should be wired to a fused spur unit that is located near by. The wiring can be done so that none of it is visible. That plug and socket set up is very crude and ugly.

Your oven and hob are supposed to be connected to a cooker control switch on a dedicated circuit via a hardwired connection. They should NEVER be connected via a plug and socket.

No sockets should be buried behind woodwork.

The broken ring circuit needs to be assessed and re-installed by a qualified electrician. It's not a job that can be done without really knowing what you're up to!

If you have never had an electric cooker before, your consumer unit will definitely need to be modified to provide a circuit for the cooking appliances.

Ideally, you should have it replaced with a more modern version that uses MCBs (Circuit Breakers) and provides RCD protection to your sockets etc.
 
As you have stated 80sman it is what they do about your kitchen now that is the true test of the company that you have used.

Good luck with it.
 
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just when you think you think you have seen it all,i completely agree you need to start again the electrics are dangerouse no cable should be touching any copper pipework sorry to say but the hole thing looks a complete mess of a job totally incompetant workers all round no doubt about it did you see a horse outside when they arrived
 
I'm impressed ChrisR :) your right it certainly is the main gas pipe.

Just had an "electrician" turn up by himself to fix it.......... just sent him away again, can't see how it can be fixed without pulling the kitchen out, not a one man job!!
 
I crabbed a B&Q kitchen installation because the gas pipe was too close to the socket (<150mm). I was supposed to be just connecting the hob, but refused.
The kitchen installers (B&Q subbies) insisted it didn't have to be 150, but I've got the gas British Standards and they haven't. The installers did nothing, then fell out with B&Q. The customer never had to pay for the kitchen because it wasn't finished and got forgotten. After several months of silence thay asked me to move the gas pipe, which took about 20 minutes, and another 5 to connect the hob :D

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That is shockinng - I think I could replicate that job with the following tools...

SDS drill (for wrecking walls tightening screws etc.)
terminal block
pliers - for cutting cable and tightening plumbing etc.
coathanger...to cut off lengths for fuse wire
lump hammer (as per SDS drill and for whanging in 6" nails)
selection of incorrect screwdrivers
blindfold
temazepam

I'm just surprised they haven't gone mad with 'crazy foam' behind the units... :eek:
 
Perhaps DIY would have been more successful!

Not sure why the "fitters" could not get the w/machine to fit in the first place as should be the same depth as the units, nothing wrong with chopping into internal block leaf but should have been a much neater job.

The stop cock is a no-no ( must be accessible at all times and the wiring is even worse, any wiring that is to be buried back into wall or is inaccessible must be joined with a crimping tool.

Regarding the extension lead it does not look good on the photo! Does the oven have an above work top height fuse spur?
If running appliances in kitchen they can run of a double socket as long as they are not sited more than one kitchen unit from the applaince and run on the ring main.

definately need to take up with kitchen company and get one of their reps out to look at the problems, if that doesn`t work then go with the above advice re, press and consumer rights.
 
I've had a surveyor out from the company and he's given me a signed copy of defects that will be rectified.

So they will fix all the problems, I'll have to wait and see how!? They should be starting (removing existing units, making good and refitting) this monday, I did try and turn the oven on but the fuse in the plug blew and I can't get at it to investigate, my guess would be that they'd but a 3 or 5 amp plug on there, as the extension lead is still live and powering the hob spark.

I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
ensure that all units / worktops and appliances are replaced, rather than removed and refitted.

has the word 'compensation' surfaced in your discussions?

You have clearly been devoid of a fully functioning kitchen for some weeks
 
The hood should be wired to a fused spur unit that is located near by. The wiring can be done so that none of it is visible. That plug and socket set up is very crude and ugly.

Your oven and hob are supposed to be connected to a cooker control switch on a dedicated circuit via a hardwired connection. They should NEVER be connected via a plug and socket.

Agree about the hood - it needs to be on a fused spur or on the lighting circuit(?)

Re the cooker not necessarily true - it depends on the oven and hob - many supplied now (with 'eco-friendly' energy ratings) specify connection using a 13amp plug to a socket on the ring - you can still connect to a cooker feed if you wish but it is not necessary.
 

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