Kitchen oven & hob wiring

[dsk]

In my house I have a dedicated circuit for the cooker. This goes to a box under my kitchen worktop into which a 6600W hob is wired. My oven is plugged into a socket on the same box using a plug with a 13A fuse.

Someone recently commented that I should have an isolator switch for the hob above the worktop and that their cooker and hob were on separate circuits. However, assuming I do not plan to change any of the appliances, is the current setup safe to leave as it is? The previous owner had the kitchen fitted about 15 years ago and I imagine it has been the way it is at least that long.

Obviously I'm not an electrician and neither is my friend, so I thought I'd ask the advice of people on here as to whether I ought to get someone in to look at it.

Thanks.

 

[Stevethetiler]

Im in a similar situation.

My hob is curerntly fed direct in an old kitchen (which im in the middle of doing a new on).

The isolator for the hob is located within a set of pan drawers (which i beleive is a big NO NO as its not accesible)

The cooker is to be moved from a tall housing (its currently like yours, plug and play) and placed under the hob.

My feed from the CU is on a 45a.

My plan (hope its correct) is to have a designated 45a cooker switch at worktop level which will feed the hob and a single convenction oven thus enabling me to isolate cooker and hob simutaneously.

 

[Steve]

Yes but if the oven is under 3kw, 3000w or 13A, feed it via a 13 amp socket and plug.

 

[Stevethetiler]

so, my oven cant be hardwired to the same circuit as the hob as its plug and play?

If thats the case, i guess what i need to do is either extend a ring to include a 13a FCU with a leg to behind the oven or do the same via a spur if i can locate a nearby socket capable of providing a spur?

 

[Steve]

Feed the hob from the cooker switch, but somehow also feed a socket from it. Plug the oven into this socket. This is how mine is done.


This is ideal for this purpose.

 

[Stevethetiler]

Ok. Im assuming the cable fed from the top is the load from the cooker switch and the two 2.5's are one for hob, one for cooker?

Problem for me is that my hob is fed via 6mm and the oven, as you know, is fed via 13a plug on the end of 2.5 cable.

I somehow need get power to both from above the worktop.

Is that kind of device capable of allowing me to feed my hob and also create a socket or am i babbling !

 

[Steve]

argh that device takes the feed from your cooker switch via 6mm² or 10mm² cable at the top.

Then you feed the hob via another 6mm² cable from the bottom, and then feed a socket from another 6mm² cable from the bottom too. So you have a short length of 6mm² cable feeding a single socket. Then plug your oven into this socket.

 

[Stevethetiler]

Right. (he says, slighty confuddled )

This is how i see it.

The supply goes up to the switch via 6mm - the load then goes to behind the oven via 6mm (where i can connect my hob) but i need to "kind of" split that behind the oven (via 6mm spur) to a normal socket thus enabling me to plug the oven in?

 

[Steve]

Two questions.

1. Can you see my picture I posted above, and click on it to reveal details of the product?

2. Do you have an outlet box where you connect your hob, or does the cable just hang out of the wall?

 

[Stevethetiler]

D'oh silly me. didnt realise i could click on the pic.

That looks like it will fit the bill perfectly. im taking it i can feed the hob hardwired direct from that device, then take a length of 6mm to a single gang socket and plug me oven into that.....resulting in me being able to flick the switch and turn the bloody lot off!

Is that right?

 

[Stevethetiler]

As it stands at the mo, the hob id fed via a 45a switch within a set of pan drawers.

The supply obviously goes to the switch which is fixed to the wall beneath the worktop and then the hob is connected via a loose 6mm cable to the load side of the switch.

 

[Steve]

D'oh silly me. didnt realise i could click on the pic.

That looks like it will fit the bill perfectly. im taking it i can feed the hob hardwired direct from that device, then take a length of 6mm to a single gang socket and plug me oven into that.....resulting in me being able to flick the switch and turn the b****y lot off!

Is that right?

THE PENNY'S DROPPED!!!

Yes, you're spot on!

 

[Stevethetiler]

Sorry! its been a long day and my head is full of electrical obstacles that i need to hurdle!!

Im assuming with that set up, i will be able to (in the future) be able to hardwire a different oven and hob and disconnect the socket if the oven and hob i buy require hardwiring.

Call me stupid (many do) but are you a spark?

 

[Steve]

I'm not, no, but I've spent long enough on these forums to know what im on about lol.

 

[Stevethetiler]

Well steve, (nice name btw!) that little gadget seems to have relieved a major headache for me.
I thought i was gonna have to spur off for a minute and didnt wanna do that really.

Mind you, i guess using that device is kinda like a spur.

So, just to recap before my poor little fried brain gives up, what i do is take the current supply up to the 45a switch at worktop....then load down to behind the oven via 6mm.......use that device......6mm from that to hob....another 6mm from that also to socket........plug oven into that and jobs a good 'un?