Kitchen Rewire - what to expect for quote?

[domll]

Hi all,

I'm planning to refurbish my kitchen, fitting all units myself which is no problem. however, for the electrics i have two different electricians coming in a few days to provide quote.

i will need the cooker switch and outlet moved to the areas indicated in red.
Blue lines indicate were current cables are located.
floor and ceiling are solid concrete

question: in your professional opinions, what should i expect as the offered solution that complies with all the regs covering kitchens.

as you can guess, I've been reading quite a few forums about incorrectly installed electrics and hope, this will provide some guidance to what I'm being advised is legal/safe (and to the competence of persons quoting).

your guidance and experience greatly appreciated.

 

[JohnD]

where will the cooker end up?

 

[ericmark]

It is near impossible to tell from what information you have given. What happened with my mothers house was the existing electrics were not up to scratch, so to avoid a full re-wire the option used was to install a kitchen consumer unit and wire the kitchen from that so the kitchen had RCD protection even if rest of the house did not.

It may sound odd, but not burying cables means you have more leeway as to where they can be placed. Since the central heating looks like some apprentice was showing how he could install pipes looking as bad as possible. I would assume you would not mind it the electrician did the same? So with surface trunking will allow a cheap installation. But we don't know what is required as to RCD protection so can't really give you an answer.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

where will the cooker end up?

Ideally with the LHS no nearer to the switch than shown here, i.e. ideally no closer than 300mm.

 

[domll]

Ban-all-shed's got it nearly; there's a small mark on the wall were i temporarily marked unit locations and will be to right side of yellow line. currently at work but will upload the plans i created when home this evening.

Again, ericmark you are really close regarding apprentice and central heating pipes, was done by City Council before i bought property. Never seen so may joints along one length, i suspect they wanted to use up all the scraps of pipe. Odd routing is due to feeding in and out of cabinets that use to be there before i cut them out. Radiator and pipes will be removed and new radiator being placed on opposite from were it is now.

No surface trunking for me, hate the stuff

 

[JohnD]

will be to right side of yellow line.

So if, say, there is a fat-fire on the cooker, bubbling over the top and front, you will reach through the flames to turn off the power.

 

[EFLImpudence]

No, that's why he is moving the switch - to the red position.

 

[domll]

So if, say, there is a fat-fire on the cooker, bubbling over the top and front, you will reach through the flames to turn off the power.

no, as ELFImpudence say's cooker switch will move to left indicated by red box; 300mm from hob top on it's nearest side and 150mm from work surface from underside of switch.
To better explain here is the design looking straight on. Included in this is a cooker hood and will depend on if wiring allows fitment.

Base and wall units need to move 30mm to left, creating 130mm on right-hand side for pipes that run through to dinning room on other side.
Red box is proposed location of switch.

To move the switch, I've had comment that original supply cable could be removed by chasing out down to floor level and junction box added.
Cable surface mounted along skirting level, inline with cooker switch then taken vertical to switch, chasing in from below work surface to switch.

would this be 'acceptable'?

Oh, and yes, filler panels to be included along with work top running full length, just couldn't get the online tool to add it in correctly.

 

[flameport]

Cable surface mounted along skirting level, inline with cooker switch then taken vertical to switch,

If surface clipped diagonally on the wall behind the units it may reach to the new switch without any junction box or joint.

 

[Taylortwocities]

It looks like you have two connection points. One for oven, one for hob?
If so, you only need one of THESE

 

[domll]

If surface clipped diagonally on the wall behind the units it may reach to the new switch without any junction box or joint.

I was thinking of safety zone, which i believe mean you cannot install diagonal...or am i wrong?

It looks like you have two connection points. One for oven, one for hob?
If so, you only need one of THESE

sorry, forgot to label, yellow box without description is junction box, were feed rises from floor.

 

[securespark]

I was thinking of safety zone, which i believe mean you cannot install diagonal...or am i wrong?

Only if buried, if it is clipped to the finished surface of the wall and visible, that's OK.

 

[Risteard]

if it is clipped to the finished surface of the wall and visible, that's OK.

I would use the term "permitted". Aesthetically it's certainly unlikely to be OK!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If surface clipped diagonally on the wall behind the units

 

[Risteard]

Well personally I still think it would look cat (as they say here), but maybe my standards are just too high...