Kitchen sockets and lighting question?

[Akshay]

Hi I'm having a new kitchen installed next month and need some advice about supplying power to existing appliances and also installing under wall-unit lights. Before I contact an electrician I'd like some advice myself on how best to tackle my 2 questions.

1. I am going to gave 2 appliances built under the worktop which I would like plugged into a socket beneath the worktop but switched via a switched above it. What are the choices in how to achieve this?

2. I want to install some mains lights under the cupboards either side of a stainless steel chimney. How do I wire these up assuming they come as a pack of 2? Obviously they link wire will have to bridge which the chimney will create but do I simply bury this in the wall?

My initial thoughts are to wire up some fused spurs to existing sockets to supply power, but not sure of any other suitable suggestions. I know there are several regulations to adhere to but I'd like some alternatives ideas of how this sort of thing is normally done.

 

[securespark]

This has been covered only recently.

"SHOULD I INSTALL FCU's?"

 

[JohnD]

This has been covered only recently.

"SHOULD I INSTALL FCU's?"

Wouldn't it be more fun to give a completely different answer every time?

 

[Akshay]

Sorry I forgot my initial post but I didn't get much feedback.

I'm just wondering how best to power the iginition for my gas hob and also the extractor fan above. There is an existing ring mains socket behind the cooker above worktop level which both appliances are plugged into at present. However, the new kitchen is going to have a stainless steel splashback which will cover that socket so I will need to move it elsewhere.

Can I remove the socket, add a fused spur above the worktop, and supply both appliances with hidden cabling in the wall?

Also can I do the same via a separate fused spur from another socket to feed a transformer for my plinth lights?

 

[JohnD]

Hi I'm having a new kitchen installed next month and need some advice about supplying power to existing appliances and also installing under wall-unit lights. Before I contact an electrician I'd like some advice myself on how best to tackle my 2 questions.

1. I am going to gave 2 appliances built under the worktop which I would like plugged into a socket beneath the worktop but switched via a switched above it. What are the choices in how to achieve this?

2. I want to install some mains lights under the cupboards either side of a stainless steel chimney. How do I wire these up assuming they come as a pack of 2? Obviously they link wire will have to bridge which the chimney will create but do I simply bury this in the wall?

My initial thoughts are to wire up some fused spurs to existing sockets to supply power, but not sure of any other suitable suggestions. I know there are several regulations to adhere to but I'd like some alternatives ideas of how this sort of thing is normally done.

One good way is to have a 20A DP switch with neon above the worktop, feeding an unswitched socket outlet directly below.

For things like cooker hoods and pelmet lamps that are fixed to the wall and do not benefit from a plug, use an FCU with (e.g.) a 3A or 5A fuse, feeding a flex outlet above.

You can lay out these switches and FCUs in a row with the socket outlets that you will also have above the worktop. The cable can run horizontally between them, which is economical in labour and materials.

Some regulations apply to electrical work in Kitchens and bathrooms in England and Wales (there is a very informative post on here ....).

edited - here it is http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=327999#327999

 

[Akshay]

Thanks for that. I just wasn't sure about the FCU for the plinth lights etc. Does this mean I can simply power these by feeding them off a fused spur from the ring mains? i.e. to make it simple I wire my plinth lights to the transformer which in turns connects to a flex inside a cupboard from the fused spur above the worktop (to act as a convenient switch location)?

If I have cabinet light which I want to switch the same time as the plinth lights can I wire these into the same circuit easily?

Sorry for the persistant questions - I'm pretty sure I can tackle the work involved but to be 100% about how to wire it all up, so I have the cables ready for when the kitchen goes in.

 

[securespark]

If I have cabinet light which I want to switch the same time as the plinth lights can I wire these into the same circuit easily?

How do we know? You know the situation...

 

[Steve]

If I have cabinet light which I want to switch the same time as the plinth lights can I wire these into the same circuit easily?

How do we know? You know the situation...

in other words, it is acceptable. whether it is easy, is up to you

 

[fireman22]

akshay,"Before I contact an electrician I'd like some advice" just get an electrician in he/she will give you advice and a quote.

 

[Akshay]

Thanks guys for your patient replies - I am getting a better understanding now of how best to tackle the wiring issues here. I want a stealth look though with no trailing flexes anywhere. If my cooker hood is wired via a fused switched spur spur, how can I hide the flex from the hood itself to the switched spur? Can I chase it in the wall - what have you guys done here?

 

[JohnD]

A good way to do a cooker hood:

3A FCU in the row of outlets above the worktop

2.5mm T&E chased into the wall running directly vertically up to a

flex outlet positioned high and next to the cooker hood.

 

[Akshay]

Thanks for that John - quick response!

When you mean a flex outlet high up next to the hood do you simply mean an unswitched socket? Can I get away with a cable entering the cooker hood housing through the back so its all hidden? Its just that I've seen so many real kitchens in magazines (not showroom ones) you can't see any cables on them around the cooker hood so they seem to be concealed somehow, and I would really like a stealth install.

 

[JohnD]

no, i mean a flex outlet.

You put it up high where people do not often look.

It is possible to paint the faceplates with a single coat of non-drip gloss, though this is not encouraged.

 

[securespark]

If you have a SS one with cover that goes up to ceiling, is it possible to hide connection in there?

 

[Akshay]

Good point - can anyone else recommend this idea? I still don't like the idea of seeing a flex outlet anywhere on the wall - even high up, because I know it would be there.