Kitchen tap connector "came apart" and flooded

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Hah ... fair enuf .... trust ebay to have something like that, that'll be why I've never seen them, never buy fittings from there.

TBH I wouldn't trust anything like that from there, dubious quality, will probably leak within a few weeks and probably won't be WRAS approved.

If your flexi's are rusting out then they won't be stainless nor WRAS approved ... is worthwhile spending a little more on quality approved items.
 
Hah ... fair enuf .... trust ebay to have something like that, that'll be why I've never seen them, never buy fittings from there.

TBH I wouldn't trust anything like that from there, dubious quality, will probably leak within a few weeks and probably won't be WRAS approved.

If your flexi's are rusting out then they won't be stainless nor WRAS approved ... is worthwhile spending a little more on quality approved items.

Totally agree. I will buy "the best bits" I can. But this got missed. The isolator is fine - its the tap connectors that came with the tap and I gave it no thought to change. As these screw on to the flat isolator, the fitting on the nut has rusted off there on both - though how/why don't know, there is plastic tube which has sealed and should've been waterproof. Could be installer error over tightening (don't think so, but you never know). Either way - changing for standard compression fittings now :)

And lesson learned -
 
Of course, it's the one thing people don't think about when buying taps etc online, whether the stuff is tested and approved for the UK market. Don't get me wrong, a lot of it is but equally, these days there's a lot that isn't.
 
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Interesting. The "new" tails were only 300mm (not 450) so needed pipework past (new) isolator extended, but then it was impossible to get spanners on to tighten up compression. So had to use push-fit instead.

However getting 3 pipes through the tap fitting (threaded brass tube that goes through the tap-hole) was next to impossible (but just about managed). But then impossible to tighten them up well in the bottom of the tap! (I remember when fitting it originally it was tight but the provided fittings were narrower).

Also, you can't fit and bench test, as the under sink nut has to be over the tails before you install them! (It does not go "over" 2 pipes and one fitting, so impossible to get on after - the tales need pushing up through nut/sink hole into tap which means its all got to be done in situ.

What a PITA!!! 5hrs later, bit less skin on my hands, its all "OK"

Sadly despite redoing twice, one of the screw-in connectors in the tap is weeping (1 drip every 6hrs) - so either not tight enough, or too tight or o-ring iffy, or something.

Not exactly sure what I could do different - with the 3 pipes (hot, cold, filter) going through the tap fitting there was barely room to rotate them to get them to tighten - but sure they were OK - (thought the feedback/feel was impossible to gage). The original tails had double o'rings, and the replacement (both the screwfix and JG guest) only had single

May try a 3rd time, or may pray the water fairies fix it themselves, or may replace tap with a branded one with branded attachments.

Was a bit like mission impossible lol THANK GOODNESS I DIDN'T NEED PTFE!!!! :) :) :) (So much easier :D )

The original fittings are as per pic - and only just fitted - but the JG speedfit tubes are wider :(
 

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Opening up a can of worms here as different guys operate differently, my way is nothing on a new joint and two wraps of tape over olive if old joint. Others will paste the olive.
New compression joint,no paste,no ptfe.
 
Stick a review on the page to warn other people in your situation.
.Webought a supposedly decent shower tray but the reviews were full of "Throw away the trap and fit a decent one"
Lucky they did cos once i bought a decent one i could see why. It is accessible but even so i don't want to replace it.
 
You should be using either these
https://www.screwfix.com/p/male-coupler-15mm-x/69358

Or
https://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-tap-adaptors-15mm-x-2-pack/2665r

As the end of a ballofix valve is conical to recieve an olive it will cut into the rubber end of a tap connector.
It has and will cause leaks in 20-30% of cases. I find you also have to hold the crimped ferrule of the tap connector with a pair of grips to stop it rotating as you finally tighten a tap connector as will twist the hoses.

Those items actually look useful - will note for future. The ballofix valve (isolator) I used *DID* have a flat edge one side so that wasn't the cause but I can imagine it is for many! It is possible it was installer fault (me) and it is possible as you suggest the final rotation twisted the internal pipe causing it to split 2y later. Though I recall being careful it is possible. (Maybe even tighter with the incorrect use of PTFE as well). Will never know exactly why, but from reading the comments I think how it was installed could well have been a contributing factor.
 

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