kitchen

He's right though.

You can get a 1G 45A DP switch in flat plate brushed stainless steel. It's not exactly going to look out of place at the side af a socket.
 
As i understand it, fixing a cooker switch securely inside a cupboard where it is accessible and not likely to be damaged is acceptable to the NICEIC and Napit. (Don't know about the others)

It's acceptable to Elecsa too, so is fitting socket outlets evidently.
 
I had a job yesterday.

It was sorting out a hood supply spur. It was on top of the bridging unit, but there was only 4" headroom between the cornice and the ceiling.

Consequently, they had just banged on the spur without a pattress and left the whole lot floating.

I brought the wiring into the bridging unit & mounted a pattress & switched spur inside the unit. The ECA don't seem to have a problem with it, nor does my QA.

I have also fitted switches inside base units for cookers, hobs etc...

I fit them at the front, so they are easy to access. And if you're worried about damage, use metalclad or Masterseal that's tougher.

Job done, no fret.
 
Dont install halogen downlights. Install these instead:



Much better, in every respect. I'll be buying some myself when I do my kitchen. You can buy a white frosted glass trim, so you wont even know they are there! They require a 15cm cutout, but thats because you get much more light from them, than a halogen light, and you'll only need half as many, if that. Ignore the price on that link, they seem to have screwed up their website somehow - the price on that page is for the emergency version, the standard one for 2 x 13w is about £22.

Do you know if this company is still trading?

I ordered one of those fittings for a bathroom, with a frosted cover. They sent me an open cover. I have phoned and emailed countless times but the clowns never send/deliver what they say they will.

Now there is no answer when I ring them?

The product is great, shame about there attitude. :(
 

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