kitchen

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hi, iam planning to put in a few new sockets in my kitchen and move the cooker point over to the other side of the room, the sockets will still be on the ring and are protected by a 32A RCBO. the cooker point is a 6mm T + E on a 32A MCB.
Question 1, as all the walls are plasterboard how do you get down the wall as iam guessing there is going to be a bit of cross wood in the way??
2, would the cooker cable be suitable to take the hobs
3,will this all need to be tested after (as iam only moving and adding sockets not new cricuits?) and is the a minor works thing for this
 
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Hi Alex,

1) You might have to cut a bit of the plasterboard out to route the cables.
2) Assuming the 6mm cable supplies only a double oven at the moment then? I guess hobs depend on the total power rating of the oven AND hobs. If you post more details then a qualified person on here may be better suited to answer.
3) Any electrical work in the kitchen is notifiable to LABC. You will either need to employ a qualified spark registered as a competent person under the Part P thingy or will have to notify BC prior to starting the work and have it inspected afterwards.

Hope this helps.
 
as all the walls are plasterboard how do you get down the wall as iam guessing there is going to be a bit of cross wood in the way??

Well you could just cut a channel in the plasterboard, or remove the plasterboard entirely and drill holes through the noggins for the cables and replace the boards.

would the cooker cable be suitable to take the hobs

Tell use the ratings for everything you intend to connect to the cable. How far is the cable from the consumer unit. What size MCB/fuse is protecting the cable. Does the cable go through any insulation on its route to the kitchen? Anything else we should know?

will this all need to be tested after (as iam only moving and adding sockets not new cricuits?) and is the a minor works thing for this

The only way to be sure is to contact your BCO. Everywhere is different.

Davy
 
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If you are adding any sockets in a kitchen, you may as well get the most value out of the inspection fee, and run ample sockets, switches and FCUs in a row 150mm above worktop height. This method is very economical in labour and materials. You only need to bring the cable down from the ceiling (or up from the floor) at the ends of the row, and you can run it round the entire room (subject to doorways). The whole run can be part of the ring (or radial). However it is an advantage to have a separate radial for the freezer so it does not go off when you drop the kettle in the sink and trip the RCD.

Put in a couple of cooker radial circuits while you're at it, one for a potential hob and one for a potential double oven (otherwise, one day you'll regret not doing it)
 
the cooker and the hob says they both need a 30A supply so would i take it i would need two 6mm cables from the cuon a 32A mcb? the run is about 5 or 6m in a loft.
 
Yes, two radial circuits, each with a dedicated 32A MCB. Do not run the cables inside insulation, especially in the loft (clip it to the timbers so no-one puts insulation on it later) or you will have to double the cable size.

If you use 10mm it will have capacity for a huge electric cooker if you ever decide to get one later. Use the cooker switches (CCUs) without an integral plug socket.
 
ok ive got a 32 cooker double pole switch thats ok isnt it for the hob and another one for the cooker (has no socket on it) also does this look like a ok run for the cable? is the any protection that the cable needs to be in as is going in to a plasterboard wall

cooker-1.jpg
 
you have drawn the switch to one side of the hob, which is good, as you will not have to lean over a burning chip pan to turn it off.

Concealed cables should be run in straight horizontal or vertical runs, it would be better to have the outlet directly under the switch so the run direction is more obvious and it will not be drilled through so often. That way you do not have to provide an earthed metal cover to the cable, which is a lot of work, and does not stop people drilling into it anyway.

It is quite handy to run your cables in oval PVC conduit, it is slightly flexible, but stiff enough to poke behind plasterboard. It also makes it easy to poke or pull a new cable through it in the event of damage. Run it right into your back-boxes.
 
thanks for your reply you guys are a great help!! is the 30A double pole cooker switch going to be ok? for the circuit then?
 
A 30A DP switch is correct if the circuit is fused (MCBd) at 30A or less.

A lot of newer cooker switches are 45A which is also fine. But make sure you have a good deep backbox.
 

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