Kitnhen spurs

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Fitting new kitchen, replacing gas cooker with built in electric oven and induction hob both 13Amp and come with plugs fitted.
Existing Radial circuit 2.5mm 20Amp that runs above worktop.
wanting to have 2 sockets below worktop to accommodate the 2 appliances.
I assume I don't need to use 13amp fsu as appliances protected by 13amp plugs and seems logical I cannot spur of with a double for both appliances as the socket would be overloaded.
Is it better to run a spur then spur of again so I get 2 socket next to each other OR is it better just to run 1 spur from a socket then run a second spur farther up the radial on another socket.
thanks
 
It is a 20 amp spur, and a double socket is rated 20 amps, so no problem with a double socket, but is a 20 amp spur enough is the question?

I wanted a new circuit in the kitchen, and the only option was SWA cable around the outside of the house. Not the way I wanted to do it, but only option.
 
Fitting new kitchen, replacing gas cooker with built in electric oven and induction hob both 13Amp and come with plugs fitted.
Existing Radial circuit 2.5mm 20Amp that runs above worktop.
wanting to have 2 sockets below worktop to accommodate the 2 appliances.
One of the sockets presumably supplied the ignition for the gas cooker, so is there a socket for that?
I assume I don't need to use 13amp fsu as appliances protected by 13amp plugs
If you want to ever isolate both appliances you can always add one.

Some do and some don’t.
and seems logical I cannot spur of with a double for both appliances as the socket would be overloaded.
What’s the likelihood both are going to be used simultaneously?
Is it better to run a spur then spur of again so I get 2 socket next to each other OR is it better just to run 1 spur from a socket then run a second spur farther up the radial on another socket.
thanks
IMO, I would spur off one socket and then spur off another socket nearby.

Please read further on…

Or you could add an appropriate junction box, in the middle of the radial and run the hob/oven from there.

20A - radial circuit supplying a kitchen,(?) hope not supplying any other things, and you’re proposing to add additional two appliances on it.

You may find that the total load exceeds the breaker rating.

You mention you are fitting a new kitchen - it would be wise to add a new dedicated socket for the new appliances.
Cu to far away and far to much work
How far away is it?

And to what extent do you mean “too much work”?

Would too much work be less work and hassle when you find out the MCB routinely trips while using other appliances too, along with the hob/oven?
 
I assume I don't need to use 13amp fsu as appliances protected by 13amp plugs
It is adequately protected by the 20A MCB.

and seems logical I cannot spur of with a double for both appliances as the socket would be overloaded.
No one seems to know for certain.

Is it better to run a spur then spur of again so I get 2 socket next to each other OR is it better just to run 1 spur from a socket then run a second spur farther up the radial on another socket.
thanks
It doesn't matter.
 
Only permanent appliance is a fridge freezer, others are kettle and toaster which are only sporadic.
New Cooker and hob are obviously under 3000W each (13A) so if both on possible 6000 plus fridge freezer.
Solid floor single storey kitchen and rest of house has been boarded/flooring.
 
2.5mm can handle 27A.

You don’t want a 13A fcu as it will overheat.

You could use a 20/30/45A switch if you want. I would. To ensure the fridge can run if there is a Cooker fault.

I’d fit a 25A mcb

What brand cu is it?
 
Toooooo many potential watts, need a re think I'm thinking.
Thanks for all suggestions and help
 
Toooooo many potential watts, need a re think I'm thinking.
Thanks for all suggestions and help

Good call. If the circuit was just for the oven and hob I’d say crack on but with other appliances I think you would be pushing things too much and not many boards offer 25A mcbs if the installation method allows 27A
 

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