Laminate floor door threshold gap.

[rezarf]

So I'm laying a laminate floor this weekend.

I've prepared the floor, but having removed the door bar connecting to kitchen which also has laminate floor I've noticed there is a gap of 9cm.

Do I just under cut the door frame and fit the flooring closer.

What can I do to bridge the gap as even if I under cut the door and leave a 10mm expansion gap from the wall it will leave a 7.5cm gap?

 

[KenGMac]

rezarf, good evening.

Suggest you consider.
1/. Cut the facing base blocks, just enough to allow the Laminate to slide in closer to the wall.
2/. Set your first piece of laminate using the above as a start point, but? remember to leave an expansion gap between the wall and the first board.

3/. Possible problem? what if the wall on each side of the door are not in line with each other? I think that there is no Skirting fitted at present? Or if the wall is not straight, or some such unevenness along the line of the wall, you will have to be careful about the gap to the wall and the overall position of the new Laminate, as regards a perfectly straight line to build away from.

4/. As for the residual gap to the Laminate in the kitchen? suggest you cut a piece of new Laminate accurately into the gap, trick being, to allow a gap between new and existing Laminate infilled by a cover strip.

Ken.

 

[Doggit]

First thing, is that your door bar should be under the door, so you really need to trim the other side back a little, and take the laminate towards the door - but it's your choice if you leave it as is.

Are you changing the direction of the laminate, as it'll be easier to keep it the same as the other room - unless there's a pressing reason to of course. You need to undercut the door frame etc to alow the laminate to slide under it, and then fit the door bar over the join.

 

[rezarf]

rezarf, good evening.

Suggest you consider.
1/. Cut the facing base blocks, just enough to allow the Laminate to slide in closer to the wall.
2/. Set your first piece of laminate using the above as a start point, but? remember to leave an expansion gap between the wall and the first board.

3/. Possible problem? what if the wall on each side of the door are not in line with each other? I think that there is no Skirting fitted at present? Or if the wall is not straight, or some such unevenness along the line of the wall, you will have to be careful about the gap to the wall and the overall position of the new Laminate, as regards a perfectly straight line to build away from.

4/. As for the residual gap to the Laminate in the kitchen? suggest you cut a piece of new Laminate accurately into the gap, trick being, to allow a gap between new and existing Laminate infilled by a cover strip.

Ken.

...

Thanks for responding.

I will be trying a full length of floor in parallel with wall tonight to see how straight the wall is.

I was considering trimming into the bottom of the plaster board to allow a bit more space to slide the floor into.

 

[rezarf]

First thing, is that your door bar should be under the door, so you really need to trim the other side back a little, and take the laminate towards the door - but it's your choice if you leave it as is.

Are you changing the direction of the laminate, as it'll be easier to keep it the same as the other room - unless there's a pressing reason to of course. You need to undercut the door frame etc to alow the laminate to slide under it, and then fit the door bar over the join.

...

Thanks for responding.

I'm running the laminate the opposite direction from the kitchen as I have light coming in from two windows in the living room, so going from what I've read its best to run laminate in the direction of the light source.

 

[Doggit]

Okay, you may need to create a template for the door frame, but it should be okay to do.

I was considering trimming into the bottom of the plaster board to allow a bit more space to slide the floor into

You should add skirting board to go over the gap, rather than cutting into the plaster.

 

[chappers]

All depends how straight and square the walls are to the doorway as Ken said also how long are the walls either side of the door, personally I would cut that piece all the way into the doorway and then scribe the first row along the wall, using row two as the guide to clamp up to, then pack back to the wall accordingly. just keep watching for the first few rows to make sure that everything is staying nice and straight and no gaps are opening up

 

[rezarf]

So I ending up using a full board over the entrance from front hallway to living room.



Then had to join 2 boards over kitchen entrance


So now I need a door bar. I've seen the one I need for carpet to laminate, but what about going both wooden floors?

Was originally going to get a matching colour to the white but will just get a silver or chrome effect.

 

[Gerrydelasel]

 

[rezarf]

..

Thanks but I have already installed the floor, I just need a suitable door bar to bridge the gap.

 

[dazlight]

Get a quickstep Incizo Wood trim. Can be made into a T bar and a end bar.