Laminate floor in new build

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Hi,

First people in a newly built house.

Not noticed this before but in downstairs toilet noticed in the corner of room the laminate floor seems to dip towards the very corner of the room and quite bouncy underfoot.

The bit is directly next to skirting baird which is next to the wall that joint to next door:

Also further along in hallway, in front of the stairs there is a bit of movement.

What is likely to be the cause? Slightly uneven sub floor? It’s laid on underlay I think on concrete floor.

It’s in a section that isn’t directly walked across so
wondering if it will be ok or anything can do to make this better?

Builder isn’t easiest to deal with so hoping something we can deal with ourselves?
 
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The correct way (if you are doing a warranty fix) is to lift the laminate, level the floor (SLC) and relay the laminate (if needs be replace it). I had to get that done a couple of times on my last big job, fortunately not too many as our SOP was to replace the section of floor. Your builder should be the one doing this

The less ideal way is to drill holes in the flor where it is soft and use a floor repair kit such as DriTac to inject foam which supports and glues the floor down. The holes are then filled with matching plugs or coloured wax pellets.
 
The correct way (if you are doing a warranty fix) is to lift the laminate, level the floor (SLC) and relay the laminate (if needs be replace it). I had to get that done a couple of times on my last big job, fortunately not too many as our SOP was to replace the section of floor. Your builder should be the one doing this

The less ideal way is to drill holes in the flor where it is soft and use a floor repair kit such as DriTac to inject foam which supports and glues the floor down. The holes are then filled with matching plugs or coloured wax pellets.
wow j&k another new system i wasnt aware off thanks
i am ---------------- still learning (y)
 
It's been around a few years, but I've only ever used it a couple of times - normally when the client wanted to move into an apartment yesterday and we therefore didn't have the time to do the job properly. Not a system I'd choose as my go to method, however
 
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Used a similar diy method for a timber floor glued to concrete, was a bit bouncy in a few areas so rather than rip it all up I drilled holes and injected with fixing foam.Worked fine and was being carpeted so appearance did not matter.
 
Actually, @foxhole, the holes you drill for DriTac are 1/8in (3.2mm) diameter - just enough to get the supplied syringe in. The glue doesn't expand. Once you've filled the void a dowel (also supplied, we bought our own when we ran out as the OEM stuff was silly money) is sharpened, glued and push into the holes, then punched under with a nail set and hammer. Two 3.2mm diameter holes are pretty easy to disguise with coloured wax, such as that supplied by Liberon, Konig, etc although hard wax or shellac sticks make for a more durable final filling (however, either does require the use of a spirit burner or heated electric stopping knife). The glue supplied takes about 18 to 24 hours to cure
 
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