Lead solder on potable water

[Onetap]

I think if you put your 'readers' on son, you'll see I have stated it's wrong what this chap has done. But it's no big deal.

If there'd been any hint that it might have been done by a short course cowboy, you'd be howling and spluttering incoherently until Christmas.

 

[Norcon]

Oh, and heat the damn fitting not the pipe.

Have done more brazing and if you applied that logic you would be producing nasty joints. (ie - would leak like a sieve)
Likewise if you heated the "pipe" only.
Certainly wouldn't be pushing them up to 20bar or more where joint integrity is critical.

Then again when you can achieve a joint with soldering by heating either the fitting or the pipe it just serves to prove that the oxy/acety brazers are indeed much more skilled as OT has outlined.
Quality pipe brazing is an art. I do have my own Boc Licence.

 

[DeltaT2]

The risks ( perceived ) form lead are so high that leaded solder is banned from all electronic equipment...

I think that may be because of the people who assemble the boards using leaded solder all day. It seeps into their hands. Old plumbers had this problem when only lead was used for pipes. Plumbers when older were regarded as barking mad because of lead in their system. Many did not wash their hands after using the lead pipe as they were not aware of the dangers.

Nope - the majority of boards are wave soldered - it goes through a large machine.

The reason lead was banned in the electronics industry was the perceived risk of lead leeching out of apparatus that was condemned to landfill.

The reality is the new lead free rubbish is far less environmentaly friendly to produce, a nightmare to work with in the electronics field, causes premature equipment failure due to incorrect soldering procedure and/or tin whiskers and the whole lead free thing is a load of rubbish in almost all electronic engineers views.

As previously stated, lead free is exempt in critical applications - i.e. medical equipment, military and certain automotive applications. You will also find exemption in minature electronic devices where the terminals are too close to be reliably soldered with lead-free.

Some good reading here : http://www.edn.com/article/462284-Roll_back_the_lead_free_initiative_12_ROHS_myths.php[/QUOTE]

May well explain the large number of failures in domestic boiler PCBs, which indirectly costs the British Taxpayer a fortune, as we pay for social housing.

 

[DeltaT2]

I think if you put your 'readers' on son, you'll see I have stated it's wrong what this chap has done. But it's no big deal.

If there'd been any hint that it might have been done by a short course cowboy, you'd be howling and spluttering incoherently until Christmas.

Oh you know me so well...............

 

[Nige F]

I hope we can keep this going until Christmas


Then resurrect it next Easter

 

[Terrywookfit]

Going off on a tangent about lead useage.
If I am out with my Shotgun and a Pheasant flies over, I can legally shoot it with lead shot.
If a Duck or Goose should fly over the same field, I am required to use a non toxic (lead free) shot.

Which of the two is more dangerous?

 

[picbits]

The goose as if it lands on you at speed it will do some serious damage !

 

[Nige F]

Going off on a tangent about lead useage.
If I am out with my Shotgun and a Pheasant flies over, I can legally shoot it with lead shot.
If a Duck or Goose should fly over the same field, I am required to use a non toxic (lead free) shot.

Which of the two is more dangerous?

With the amount of tree hugging H+Safety today - you`re goose and duck`ed anyway Keep this thread going until the Christmas turkey arrives

 

[JohnD]

If a Duck or Goose should fly over the same field, I am required to use a non toxic (lead free) shot.

I didn't know that.

Is there a link you know that says what's required where?

Does it matter if its over salt water?

What about clays?

 

[Terrywookfit]

If a Duck or Goose should fly over the same field, I am required to use a non toxic (lead free) shot.

I didn't know that.

Is there a link you know that says what's required where?

Does it matter if its over salt water?

What about clays?

http://www.basc.org.uk/en/shooting/lead-nonlead-shot.cfm

 

[Onetap]

If I am out with my Shotgun and a Pheasant flies over, I can legally shoot it with lead shot.
If a Duck or Goose should fly over the same field, I am required to use a non toxic (lead free) shot.

Is there anyone employed to check on blokes with 12-bores to ensure they are complying with the regulations?

 

[SimonH2]

Oh, and heat the damn fitting not the pipe.

Then again when you can achieve a joint with soldering by heating either the fitting or the pipe ...

I always heat both.
It doesn't make sense to me to heat one part up to the right temperature, only to have it overheating (possibly burning the flux & oxidising the copper) before the other part is hot. And of course, the length of pipe attached to the bit your are soldering into the fitting does make a fairly good heat sink

Oh yes, and having watched someone doing brazed joints (aircon system, no flux), I reckon that's a skill that won't come easily to a lot of people.

 

[DeltaT2]

Heat the fitting only on all capillary fitting, just as it says in the Yorkshire instructions.............Been doing it since I started my time in the early 70s, that's how we were shown & that's how it should be done.

 

[doitall]

Oh, and heat the damn fitting not the pipe.

Have done more brazing and if you applied that logic you would be producing nasty joints. (ie - would leak like a sieve)
Likewise if you heated the "pipe" only.
Certainly wouldn't be pushing them up to 20bar or more where joint integrity is critical.

Then again when you can achieve a joint with soldering by heating either the fitting or the pipe it just serves to prove that the oxy/acety brazers are indeed much more skilled as OT has outlined.
Quality pipe brazing is an art. I do have my own Boc Licence.

Done more than my share Norcon, mostly 67mm and above.

 

[JonasX]

Oh, and heat the damn fitting not the pipe.

Then again when you can achieve a joint with soldering by heating either the fitting or the pipe ...

I always heat both.
It doesn't make sense to me to heat one part up to the right temperature, only to have it overheating (possibly burning the flux & oxidising the copper) before the other part is hot. And of course, the length of pipe attached to the bit your are soldering into the fitting does make a fairly good heat sink

If you play the flame on the socket part of the fitting, it will heat the fitting, the pipe in the fitting beneath and the flux between the two. I can't see what good it will be playing the flame up and down on the fitting and the pipe to heat both. Moving the flame around the fitting to get the fitting hot all round is a benefit if you have space to do this - this only applied to sizes over 15mm, like 22mm, 28mm, etc. Yes, you are right copper is great conductor of heat anyhow, so the pipe will get hot.

I find that not overheating the fitting is essential. As it is being heated, constantly touch the joint with the solder until it is at melting point then pull back on the flame to not overheat. If it is overheated the solder may run out of the joint making it weak and run over the pipe giving solder teardrops.

Of course all this assumes you have ideal access t the joint.