led downlights

[mrcrow]

The two you have linked to are different.
For the Screwyfix one: Each set of 4 LED lights has a central driver (aka 'transformer'). So you will need to connect your existing LNE cables to the driver. The kit will include smaller cables that go from the driver to each light.

For the Toolystation ones, they are separate 230v LED lights that have the driver inside each light, so you need to connect the existing LNE cables to each light.
Look in the WIKI for "Wiring Lights in Parallel" in the lighting section.

The Wago connectors are one way of making the connections. But remember that you will need to put the connectors inside an enclosure (WAGO make suitable ones for this!)

hi mr T...

i found the junction box in the loft insulation for one of the existing lights wired up loop in and out
and the wiring is ...black and red/blue and brown...what colours would i choose for my extension cables??


cheers and thank again for being so helpful

 

[bhm1712]

Apart from the calculations being wrong (you don't calculate light required in watts) you will also need to fathom out where the light from the downlighting will be focussed. Beam angle and lumen output is what you need to be focussing on. Down lights were designed with the intention of focussing light onto a particular area, not lighting up an entire room. Hence why many homes and businesses are lighting up their rooms with many many down lights rather than several fit for purpose light sources.

 

[mrcrow]

Apart from the calculations being wrong (you don't calculate light required in watts) you will also need to fathom out where the light from the downlighting will be focussed. Beam angle and lumen output is what you need to be focussing on. Down lights were designed with the intention of focussing light onto a particular area, not lighting up an entire room. Hence why many homes and businesses are lighting up their rooms with many many down lights rather than several fit for purpose light sources.

i did show in my post some awareness of lumens..

i have been going over those exact points and have been checking beam angles and from what you say i may modify my approach and fit more
the only advice i have seen so far on spacing is to start the first light around 2 feet from a wall
we have some fitted in the bathroom and its possible it may be cheaper to put in a set of 12v units with drivers...that is what is in the bathroom at present.. and the 4 small lamps in the ceiling...the tiling which is white reflects quite a lot
my living room walls are just off white with a tinge of cream...the ceiling is white
but both surfaces are matt finish
many thanks
cheers
geof

ps can you suggest a website to allow me to do a proper design?
also i am used to using trigonometry so i can draw out the angles of the beams which i guess should overlap somewhere at eye level when standing..?

 

[Steve]

Don't use daylight coloured lamps in a living room. You will regret it. A living room is a place to relax. You cannot relax under daylight coloured lamps, and you can relax even less under downlights. No matter how bright they are, they are still very intense. My shop has warm white lamps! The best lighting in a living room is uplighters shining onto a white ceiling. I have two 7 watt CFL lamps doing just that, and in my new house I will have two 12 watt dimmable LED fittings doing just that too.

 

[mrcrow]

Don't use daylight coloured lamps in a living room. You will regret it. A living room is a place to relax. You cannot relax under daylight coloured lamps, and you can relax even less under downlights. No matter how bright they are, they are still very intense. My shop has warm white lamps! The best lighting in a living room is uplighters shining onto a white ceiling. I have two 7 watt CFL lamps doing just that, and in my new house I will have two 12 watt dimmable LED fittings doing just that too.

yes, i think i am getting baffled with all the tech on lamps etc
your advice is sound and practical, and makes my ideas look a bit un-thought out properly
i am giving this project some more thought
grateful for that input
my wife suggested daylight as we dont have a window in this room...to put one in would cost aroun £1000 so we moved onto daylighting at one end and warm white at the other end where there are french doors opening onto a conservatory with translucent roof sheets
on a dullish day, as it is today.. the far end of the room away from the conservatory is very dulll...that is where we would have put a window in a side wall...so leading us to think to put in 3 largish daylight led bulb units with drivers fitted into the bulbs

30118 - 145 x 67mm. Cut out 125mm

you may see where i am going wrong..dont hesitate to advise
i have also attached the room plan and pics just to see, for interest and for any other viewers who can steer me a bit forward
cheers
geof

 

[Steve]

Are you going to be using the lighting during the day? If so then by all means use daylight lamps. It'll then look similar to your conservatory, though of course will still never be as bright. I would still be very reluctant to pepper a living room ceiling with holes though. Could you find cool white LED lamps to fit those fittings you have now?

For evenings you will want some warm white lighting like i described above to relax in. You could achieve this with some uplighters or even some table lamps.

 

[mrcrow]

Are you going to be using the lighting during the day? If so then by all means use daylight lamps. It'll then look similar to your conservatory, though of course will still never be as bright. I would still be very reluctant to pepper a living room ceiling with holes though. Could you find cool white LED lamps to fit those fittings you have now?

For evenings you will want some warm white lighting like i described above to relax in. You could achieve this with some uplighters or even some table lamps.

this is the feedback i got from my wife as a suggestion about 3 mins ago
i am looking at a large but slim surface fitting which i agree i could do a 6000-7000 K near the piano and a warmer unit at the conservatory end..we have actually got the tv that end so its not an are where we read much...although even with the existing light at the piano end we can read...we seldom have the conservatory end light on except for when we have a number of people visiting...which include 7 grandchildren..
the existing lights we brought from our recent move...and since the ceilings here are marginally lower at 7'-6"...seem to be a bit intrusive
your idea about using other bulb types could mean we could perhaps get new light fittings which dont dangle so much and do a bulb swop on them...i am pursuing that now since the hole in the ceiling situation could as you point out look rather bizarre in our 1985 bungalow styling..which we like

many thanks for your input...when this is sorted i will be glad


cheers
geof

 

[mrcrow]

'just one more question'...lieutenant columbo

i have chosen fire rated led downlighters

can i run the loft insulation over them or leave them in air

cheers
geof

 

[EFLImpudence]

Whatever it says in the instructions.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Almost all require room to breathe, or they fry. You would need loft caps or loft braces to keep the insulation from smothering the downlights.
Or buy downlights that do allow you to put insulation over the top, like the Aurora M10.

 

[mrcrow]

Almost all require room to breathe, or they fry. You would need loft caps or loft braces to keep the insulation from smothering the downlights.
Or buy downlights that do allow you to put insulation over the top, like the Aurora M10.

i got some from wickes...£6 each made by the people who do the loft legs etc
look like upside down black washing bowls...got an extra 4 for the bathroom lighting which was never done by the previous owner
thanks all
cheers
geof