LED Lights for rented property (HMO)

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I have a HMO where I am responsible for bills and want to ensure that I am as efficient as I can be when it comes to the use of electricity. The house currently has halogen bulbs and lights with multiple bulbs in some cases. Its not uncommon for householders to leave the lights switched on even when they are not in use!

Q. Is there a decent range of LED lights that I can use for these individual rooms? I am trying to find the right balance between cost of purchase and the efficiency that I will realise.

Secondly, is there a calculator to "size" lights for a room?

Thanks in advance.
 
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@securespark Thanks for the above.
A thought: would these bulbs not be as effective?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-bc-g...ck/3118t#product_additional_details_container

They are a similar wattage, lumens and have the same life expectancy as the light. They are much cheaper and replaceable when compared to the LED light. I appreciate the difference in aesthetics. Am I missing something?
I also learnt through a separate post that I need double insulated lights which means that I would probably need a more expensive version of the bulkhead(1) whereas the ceiling rose are Double Insulated by default I understand.
 
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With a BC lamp holder, the LED lamps could be replaced with less energy efficient lamps.
 
Good point!
This reminds me that when I was living in a new build house once, it had a different lamp holder (not BC or ES). Are you familiar with this and is this an option?
 
I imagine those are very expensive these days for initial purchase.

Personally I like the energizer range (available from B&M)
 
I've used several packs of those, as has a friend/colleague, not had any failures so far - IMO excellent value.
However, for many people they will be too dim - especially if they are like my wife who's view is "you can't beat a good old fashioned 100W bulb". The search for a good LED equivalent to the "good old fashioned 100W bulb" is difficult - in GLS format there are few that go above 60W or 75W equivalent, and many of those are aesthetically unpleasing (typically because the higher output ones tend to be cool white).
Phillips do a nice one, 13W IIRC but IIRC slightly larger (potential space issues in some luminaires) and definitely not cheap - could be this one. After that you get into globe types - larger still so won't fit in most enclosed fittings. B&Q do some (IMO) nice large globes (at a price) - but having got a couple of them they do have a lot of flicker, as do most cheap LEDs. I've also tried a V-TAC 15W globe - but that had a very cold white light.

Bear in mind that probably the biggest design issue with LEDs is getting the heat out. The higher the power and the smaller the form factor, the bigger the problem. Sticking with the standard GLS shape severely limits the options for the manufacturer - which I suspect is the reason they mostly stop at around 60 to 75W equivalent. Go to a globe format and the area for a heatsink is larger - so higher power's are possible. Go to integrated (as in the LED is an integral part of the luminaire) devices and the options for the designer open up - hence why it's easy to find 20W and upwards in (eg) floodlight format.

Realistically you have to look at the specs to find ones with good light output, and try them out. The specs will tell you things like lumen output and if they are warm or cool white - but they won't tell you if the LED current (and hence light output) is smoothed or just rectified direct from the mains and they have a hard 100Hz flicker*. Not to mention that the "colour" of the light will vary - one manufacturers "warm white" can be significantly different to another's - while some of the colours are just "odd".
A few weeks ago I was in one of the local cheap shops and they had a load of CK Lighting 16W bulbs (some other sizes as well). I bought some for home and some for church - people had been complaining that it was too dark to read easily. While they make the church a lot lighter, the colour is distinctly odd - cool white but unlike anything else I've seen !

* A lot of the cheaper lamps simply have a bridge rectifier, current limiting resistor (or maybe capcitor), and a load of LED emitters. These extinguish completely as the mains voltage reduces and passes through zero 100 times a second. So the light creates a strong strobe effect whenever anything is moving - including a person's eyes. That can be very distracting in some situations.
 
Simon. Don't waste any more time and get yourself an energizer LED 100W eqv.

These are aesthetically pleasing. You honestly can't tell the difference in colour side by side.
They are brighter than incandescent. A 100W can almost replace a 150W pearl they are that good!
The whole range from 40W upwards is brighter than the eqv incandescent. (I guess designed this way for customer satisfaction)
They aren't big.

I highly rate the whole energizer LED range except the G9's. (use minisun for them)
 
TBH I don't think some people would be happy with anything less than 150W incandescent :whistle: The whole lighting setup needs a look at - I have some ideas on that, and they don't include pendant lamp
holders for GLS bulbs or the pair of old flouro tubes lighting the alter area.
 
Efficient = achieving maximum productivity with minimum wasted effort or expense. This is hard to calculate as so many variables.

With a home with electric heating in winter it makes no difference what bulb is used, as we want the heat produced by the bulb, only in the summer will there be a waste.

With heating that is cheaper than electric then using a bulb to heat the room will cost, however by how much, and will the extra cost of a LED bulb mean worth changing? So B&M BN22d bulb 1521 lumen 12.5 watt at £8.99 a pair is a good start point. It may be equivalent to 90W tungsten but you could not buy a 90W so must be considered as replacing a 60W bulb.

Assuming using gas for heating then a tungsten bulb will use £7.27 of electric over it's life more than a LED. This is less than cost of LED bulb, however only valid if replacing new tungsten which is unlikely, and does not include to cost involved of changing the bulb. The cost of the physical act of replacing means likely cheaper to replace all bulbs in a house together, failed or not, as cheaper than the charge for calling out some one to change them twice.

With the cost of changing in mind, we over light rooms, if we double the light required in each room, then 50% of the lights can fail before we replace them. This may work with industrial premises, however unlikely to work with domestic.

However it does raise a question, who should replace a bulb in domestic premises? The BA22d-3
mem-1.jpg
will make it hard to replace with non energy saving a 15W LED version will cost around £15 compared with £5 for standard fitting, it is the same with the GU10L1 when compared with standard GU10 to get an LED lamp with the dimple needed so it will fit in a GU10L1 holder is near double that to a standard GU10.

They were made to comply with building regulations, Part L1 not sure if still valid in England.

I found if one starts to look at health and safety and building regulations you can go crazy, if for example the light at top of stairs fails in this house, there is normally enough light coming in through the window to allow safe egress, however when my father-in-law stayed over Christmas he could not find the light switch, and he walked past the toilet, and turned left at stairs instead, which he then fell down, hind sight is easy, we should have not turned off the light. This was compounded when my daughter decided to take him to hospital, then there was the A&E wait.
 

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