Light switch doesn't fit ideas

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Upstairs landing light switch doesn't fit between the architrave. (See photo)

Options are fit architrave switch, although once flush mounted might be hard to operate or make a wooden square for a standard light switch to flush mounted to. Or move the switch, although it's current position makes the most sense.

The only other logical place has a socket directly below so would be difficult to route the 2 way switch cables to the downstairs switch
 

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Well fitted and filled block of wood - or two pieces, one top and one bottom of switch.

It only looks poor at the moment because of - what is it - dirty caulk?
 
IMO it looks poor because the architrave has had to be cut away.

upload_2019-1-24_12-57-28.png


And even if cleaned up and done more neatly, IMO it will always look poor.

Either an architrave switch (which will be fine to operate unless you're wearing boxing gloves), or replace the architrave with narrower mouldings. The two where the switch are will need replacing anyway if an architrave switch is recessed into the wall.
 
Yep well spotted that's the reason, should have taken a better photo... probably half asleep after nightshift

I can be very handy with filler, and would like to avoid replacing the architrave due to difficulty sourcing matching.

If using an architrave switch for 2 way switching would there be sufficient room in the backbox for this?

I'm also tempted with the idea of a 2 gang architrave switch so i can operate the hall light from upstairs
 
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years ago Mk made a square switch it was smaller than a normal switch
 
They were called MK Mini Logic and were only (AFAIR) surface mounted. They came with their own pattresses.

Think the Mini Logic sockets are still being sold in some markets (Malaysia/ Singapore??) but not sure about the switches.
 
They were called MK Mini Logic and were only (AFAIR) surface mounted. They came with their own pattresses. Think the Mini Logic sockets are still being sold in some markets (Malaysia/ Singapore??) but not sure about the switches.
Mini Logic sockets (2959WHI & 2949WHI), but not Mini Logic switches, are still in MK's UK catalogue, but I don't know whether one can get them in the UK (other than perhaps from eBay - and I guess that might even apply to switches!).

Kind Regards, John
 
Upstairs landing light switch doesn't fit between the architrave. (See photo)

Options are fit architrave switch, although once flush mounted might be hard to operate or make a wooden square for a standard light switch to flush mounted to. Or move the switch, although it's current position makes the most sense.

The only other logical place has a socket directly below so would be difficult to route the 2 way switch cables to the downstairs switch
You did ask for ideas so, here goes.

While I am not sure of the dimensions of UK Wall-Plates, I do know that they are wider than US and Australian Wall-Plates, which have a nominal width starting at 70 mm - but some plates with covers may be 75 mm.
Because of this, you could use an Australian one or two Gang wall plate (See https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SC2000-...dDelivery!3129!AU!-1:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true)
While I am unsure of the legality of using these switches in the UK, the same mechanisms are/were sold by Schneider Electric in the UK.

It is not just the switch that is causing the problem but the width of the back-box also.
Of course you would need to replace the Back-Box with one of appropriate size, which you should be able to obtain from the USA (e.g via amazon.com)
(About the only type of back-box obtainable in Australia is one like this [https://www.bunnings.com.au/hpm-standard-wall-junction-box-with-sliding-nuts_p7053636] for masonry walls - since, elsewhere, back-boxes are not used in Australia/NZ)

If you just replaced the back-box with one of US/Australian size, you could make an adapter plate out of plastic to suit the mountings in that (or use a US or Australian "Blank" plate of 70 mm x 115 mm), and cut an opening in it to mount a UK Architrave switch - or a double UK architrave switch. (The mounting centers for the screws in US/Australian wall plates are 97 mm apart.)
 
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So how are accessories fitted then? Particularly in solid brick walls.
As I wrote, "the only type of back-box obtainable in Australia is one like this [https://www.bunnings.com.au/hpm-standard-wall-junction-box-with-sliding-nuts_p7053636] for masonry walls." (Other sizes are available - for masonry walls [https://www.clipsal.com/Trade/Produ...es/Wall-Boxes-Metal?c=1&ms=2&mg=355&g=3552694])

If it is necessary to mount a socket outlet or switch on an existing masonry wall, a mounting block is often used (to avoid removing masonry) but, of course, this means that the item sits well above the wall surface. (https://www.clipsal.com/Trade/Produ...TING-BLOCKS?c=1&ms=2&mg=355&g=3552565&cl=2766)

For stud walls there is a range of "mounting brackets" (https://www.clipsal.com/Trade/Products/Catalogue?c=1&ms=2&s=1&mg=355&g=3552647), for "new work", and when additional socket outlets/switches are installed in existing plaster-board walls of various thicknesses, "Mounting Clips" (e.g. https://www.clipsal.com/Trade/Products/ProductDetail?CatNo=HD154&c=1&ms=2&s=1&mg=355&g=3552647) are used.
 
As I wrote, "the only type of back-box obtainable in Australia is one like this [https://www.bunnings.com.au/hpm-standard-wall-junction-box-with-sliding-nuts_p7053636] for masonry walls."
I'm rarther surprised that Bunnings (which, as I understand it, is very much a consumer/DIY outlet) sells such things in Australia. Who is allowed to use it - and would they be likely to go to Bunnings (rather than a proper electrical wholesaler) to get their materials?

Kind Regards, John
 

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