Lighting circuit - Wiring for upgradeabilty - Smart home

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I'm currently rewiring a house and it's being done under LABC notification as its not financially viable to go and do inspection & test, then become a member of a scheme etc etc to self cert just for one job. Electrics / electronics aren't new to me. I've done several domestic rewires over the years before PartP came in.

Rather than do the downstairs lighting circuit hardwired in the usual way I'd much rather bring everything, radial, switches, lamps to one point and then sort it out. At the moment the house is gutted and its very easy to do anything I like in it.

I want to do this for 2 reasons:
1) At some point in the future the downstair room configurations will change after an extension. The switch and light fitting placings will stay the same, but their interaction will change. Another couple of lamps and switches will be added.
2) Further down the line still, the lighting system will go under the control of a computer for control and energy monitoring. The control side (ie the voltages found at the light switches) will probably become 12 volt.
3) Additions become organized and easy to do and troubleshooting the same.
4) With a couple of parallel light fittings switched from two/three places the wiring becomes easier and there's never a connector block or congestion anywhere in the fittings.

Accessibility and future inspection is course a concern, so I was going to bring it to a fit for purpose steel box mounted high up near the ceiling under the stairs. Whilst freely accessible and visible it's 9 foot off the floor so unlikely to be disturbed. For the connections I'd want reliability and a modular, upgradeable approach, so I'm thinking DIN rail. To first of all to form the necessary hard patches between the wiring and then at a later date install the isolated control gear. I've yet to use DIN rail but have come across it a number of times. I'd much prefer something that was industry standard.

My questions for you are:

A) Can anybody see a better way of doing it? Either a better system or any tweeks.
B) Is DIN rail the way to go? It seems very widely used and cheap enough. I like its modularity.
c) Ultimately I know it's for the LABC inspector to approve or disprove of, but can you see anything there that would be of genuine concern and that they could definitely throw out? I'm worried that he might throw a wobbler over it as he was getting twitchy when I said he'd be looking at a CU full of RCBOs. Although if he's unsure about that it leads me to question his abilities. If I've got a case, which I think I have, and there's no reason why its not okay I'll politely argue it with him. If it all goes mad I may HAVE to go and do I & T.
 
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The concept is a good one and something I have done for several of the lights in this house and will be doing in the ancient cottage I am about to buy and renovate.

I designed and built a bespoke controller as I couldn't find anything on the market that did what I wanted in the way that I wanted it done.

Using DIN rail terminals makes it easy to install and flexible in use.

The module controls 8 lamps using industrial solid state switches and has 16 inputs for switches that operate on 12 volts. This removes all contraints that apply to switches operating on 230 volts. For example small magnetic reed switches concealed in door frames can to be used to operate lights when the door is opened. Compact keypads with several small buttons can be used and small multi-core cable is used for connecting the switches to the controller.

Multi-way and combinational switching is easy to achieve.

Using a processor enables time delays to be built in so for example when leaving the house pressing just one button turns on the porch and drive way lamps. After a few minutes they turn off bythemselves. Other buttons control the lamps independently. Very flexible once the unit has been programmed.


Sorry it's a dim picture, the lights aren't working :oops:
 
DIN rail has the advantage of being very modular and can be easily labelled , even colour coded, for ease of servicing and testing.

Several terminals can be linked together by a "bus bar" type connection to avoid the need for looping wires to connect them

Green/yellow terminals that provide a good earth via the DIN rail make for easy to see, easy and reliable earthing connections that are much more secure than a wire looped around a series of terminal blocks.
 
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Connector block is something I much want to avoid. I don't like connectors where a screw is driven into a soft copper conductor. Although mains plugs etc have used it for years I'm glad to see that breakers and such have made the jump. Hopefully we'll see it sometime on sockets.

DIN terminals do have a more reliable, and easy to use caged box type of contact and as Bernard mentions is helpful for organization. I like the idea of also visually laying out the panel. When you take the lid off, things
are making sense even before you've read the labelling. Connector block is often one colour only.

Bernard, where did you see the bus bar style connections for DIN rail terminals? I've checked a couple of the usual places but haven't seen them yet. They would be most useful.

Thankyou for the picture. I put it through a bit of image processing to get a better look at it. Again to start something modular will give me a chance to go on to investigate existing control systems further down the line or just create something bespoke.

Has anybody tried to do anything like this under LABC notification before? If so how did they view it?

Edited for spelling & layout
 
Thanks for that Bernard.
Like so many things, once you know the terminology or abbreviations they use, all kinds of things pop up.
I've just taken delivery of a few sample terminals and wondered what the middle threaded holes were for. That explains it.
 
If you want to truly future proof your wiring, then install a steel conduit from each light and each switch position back to a central steel box, and then you'll be able to rewire with what ever you like with no damage at all.
 
Ultimately I know it's for the LABC inspector to approve or disprove of, but can you see anything there that would be of genuine concern and that they could definitely throw out?

Ultimately, it's for the inspector to come up with a legitimate argument as to why your scheme would not comply with the very broad requirement of Part P to make "reasonable provision for safety," if he thinks there's some reason that it doesn't meet that requirement. Just because your wiring doesn't follow the crowd by using the same technique as most of the other installations he might see is not enough. There's no reason why your proposed wiring is not going to make that reasonable safety provision (so long as it's all installed properly with suitable fittings, of course).

I'm worried that he might throw a wobbler over it as he was getting twitchy when I said he'd be looking at a CU full of RCBOs.

I hope you pressed him to explain why he was getting twitchy. What reason did he give for balking at that?
 

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