Lintel and brick advice

7 Apr 2008
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United Kingdom
Hi all.

Just hoping for some pointers.

I've been putting this off for along time now but need to bite the bullet as it were.

Right, the light blue will be new doors
Dark blue will need to be new brickwork as the doors do no span to the original width of window
Green is existing concrete lintel on inner skin
Yellow will be new lintel
Red line is where the joist are inside.

So my thinking is this.

Acro inside every 2-3ft with board to support the joist.

Then outside, acros with strong boys going in 1 skin or as far as possible?

Once all supported, remove window and brick up left hand side - keying is where possible.

*Should I brick to the finished required width, or go wider and cut it back with diamond saw when I cut the brickwork below?

Once that is bricked up, how long can I wait before placing new lintel on new brick work?

Remove 2 course of bricks for new lintel.
Does lintel sit directly on brick or do I bring it up to meet the course above and pack with slate then motar?

Other question.
I have been given calcs for a UB or a Catnic.
UB works out cheaper but all he said is the size with a 8mm plated welded for the bricks to sit on but no size of the bricks.
So I presume the plate it brick + cavity + brick on the bottom of the I ?

Where does the UB site in relation to depth. ie. straddling both inner and outer skin?

I have more question but can not remember these at the moment.

Other info, I have got BC involved and approved, I have had quotes for thie work ranging from £800 - £2000
Money is high priority and I don't like paying for work I feel very capable of doing myself :)

Thanks inadvance
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The calcs say 178 x 102, so the width of the bottom plate I can work out from brick and cavity widths.
So is there more weight on the inner skin than outter as from that sketch to me it looks like the outer is not as well supported as the inner skin?
There is usually more weight on the inner skin, as this also carries the weight of the roof (and the floor if the joists span on to the wall).

If the steel plate is 8mm thick and is welded to the bottom flange along two lines,it will easily support the brickwork.

Catnic make a similar fabricated beam using an I beam with plate welded on the underside, intended for carrying heavy loads over long spans (google 'Catnic CXL')
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Aaaah right, that all makes sense then, many thanks.

Yeah have looked at Catnics, the one I need would be £130 where as UB with the plate is going to be around £90

So am I correct with my proceeder of doing the job or have I missed anything out.

One other potential problem.
The end wall where the current shed door is. the brick work is like the picture below.

The inner skin extends byond the outer skin by 80mm
When the new door is fitted it needs to sit to the outer skin would I be able to cut the inner skin flush with the outer?

(the black is current door fram, and where new one would be sat

This in turn means the 150bearing of the lintel will be sat on the inner skin bricks going perpendicular to the lintel.
Will this be an issue?
Looking back at your pic, there seem to be only 1 1/2 bricks showing on the front face at the corner of the house. This is called the 'return', and modern requirements are that the return should be about 550mm (say 2 1/2 bricks) to ensure lateral stability of the building.

The potential problem you have here is that in putting a much wider opening in, you are effectively increasing the load on that corner.

If you have made a Building Regs application for this (which you should) you need to discuss this with the inspector to see if he would be happy with it left as it is. He may ask you to get an SE to do some figures to prove adequacy, or possibly strengthen the corner some way.
I have had approvle forms from BC but no visit as yet.
And have has a SE round to do calc and I did mentioned the narrow end but he did not express any intrest or concern about it.

Think I will get BC round see what he thinks.

If I have to move it in more it may just scupper all the interior plans for kitchen :(

Just going back to the op, I said about bricking up 3rd the window.
How long should I let that settle before placing lintel on?
Just going back to the op, I said about bricking up 3rd the window.
How long should I let that settle before placing lintel on?

24/48 hours is plenty; cement mortar develops its strength very quickly.

As regards the corner brickwork; if the project's been approved by b/c, then you're OK.
Well i gave details over the phone which they said was okay and took a handsome sum of money for the privilege.
So think will def get them out to actually see it.

Thanks for all you advise Tony, much appreciated.
Hmm, delved a little into this.

Seems I could have 2 option here.

1. Bring the outer skin in line with the inner skin and hope the BCO agrees that this is okay due to the fact an opening already exists within 550mm of end wall.

Or, not sure if this is possible but.

2.Fit a 'corner' lintel so that the load is spread more down the gable wall......this could also fit for future idea of extension to that end of the house.

What does anyone think?
Instead of fitting a corner lintel fit a shaped padstone.

I believe this may work as far as load dispersion is concerned.
The shape being a square spreading over both inner and outer skin?

Or a L shaped stone?

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