I can't see a boiler pic
I guess the system is fully pumped, having been converted ( by the size of F/R pipes)
Looking to replace water cylinder which type needed?
- Thread starter Mojo12345
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- water cylinder
I guess the system is fully pumped, having been converted ( by the size of F/R pipes)Sponsored Links
The small cistern on the left is the old feed and expansion cistern for the previous boiler that operated as an open vented system.
The new Vaillant operates as a sealed system hence the red expansion vessel/gauge/safety valve.
The white cistern on the RHS looks to be in operation feeding the cylinder below (and maybe the cold taps). The overflow pipe (aka warning pipe) in case of float valve failure dips into the old F & E cistern (a common bodge).
The F & E cistern is now not plumbed in meaning if the float valve fails you will have a potential flood. You can see the original overflow was plumbed to the outside (top left on small white cistern) before being cut off for scrap.
Diy/builder/bodge plumber work at its finest.
The new Vaillant operates as a sealed system hence the red expansion vessel/gauge/safety valve.
The white cistern on the RHS looks to be in operation feeding the cylinder below (and maybe the cold taps). The overflow pipe (aka warning pipe) in case of float valve failure dips into the old F & E cistern (a common bodge).
The F & E cistern is now not plumbed in meaning if the float valve fails you will have a potential flood. You can see the original overflow was plumbed to the outside (top left on small white cistern) before being cut off for scrap.
Diy/builder/bodge plumber work at its finest.
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Decide what you're doing with the cylinder...re the lack of hot water.
If a new cylinder's required maybe an unvented might be an option if the pressure/flowrate/taps are adequate etc.
Otherwise that cold cistern looks undersized (normally a 50 gal capacityfor a typical home) and replacement should be considered to bring it up to regs. (lid, insulation, flyscreens etc).
The support structure looks iffy...the lack of triangulation, it's made from scrap wood, a poor base for the cistern etc. what's it sitting on ceiling joistwise?
I'd be checking pressures and seeing whether an unvented cylinder is possible.
If a new cylinder's required maybe an unvented might be an option if the pressure/flowrate/taps are adequate etc.
Otherwise that cold cistern looks undersized (normally a 50 gal capacityfor a typical home) and replacement should be considered to bring it up to regs. (lid, insulation, flyscreens etc).
The support structure looks iffy...the lack of triangulation, it's made from scrap wood, a poor base for the cistern etc. what's it sitting on ceiling joistwise?
I'd be checking pressures and seeing whether an unvented cylinder is possible.
First thing I'd do is check the Motorised valve for the Hot Water circuit is opening as it should, that may be your issue, rather than a problem with the cylinder and/or a blockage.
Secondly, sort those cisterns out if you're keeping it open vented. Needs a proper base/platform, remove that dead leg of the old feed to the F&E cistern, (the small cistern could be removed altogether now, its not serving any purpose), and reconnect the overflow from the Cold Storage cistern, so it wont leak water everywhere if a problem arises.
If you're going along the Unvented route, the lot will be redundant, if you're keeping the current open vented setup, then I'd replace the cistern with a modern version with sealed lid etc.
Secondly, sort those cisterns out if you're keeping it open vented. Needs a proper base/platform, remove that dead leg of the old feed to the F&E cistern, (the small cistern could be removed altogether now, its not serving any purpose), and reconnect the overflow from the Cold Storage cistern, so it wont leak water everywhere if a problem arises.
If you're going along the Unvented route, the lot will be redundant, if you're keeping the current open vented setup, then I'd replace the cistern with a modern version with sealed lid etc.
could I please ask for recommendations for a new boiler this one is 10 years old and has not been serviced properly making a booming noise and gurgling sounds time for a change, I’m looking to stick to a conventional boiler not combi,
The house has 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms semi detached house, 10 radiators at the moment the current boiler is a valiant eco tec plus 428, I’ve heard Viessmann or baxi or newer valiant boilers are good any reccomemdations please
thank you, also what kilowatt would I need?
The house has 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms semi detached house, 10 radiators at the moment the current boiler is a valiant eco tec plus 428, I’ve heard Viessmann or baxi or newer valiant boilers are good any reccomemdations please
I'd concentrate on one thing at a time to be honest, especially with the current situation.
Any new boiler will have to be fitted on a clean system anyway, and it could well be crud in the system that's causing a lot of your current problems. If you are out of your depth, get a Pro in to have a look, a good service and system flush may well sort out your boiler and cylinder issues. Have you looked at the motorised valve on the HW side and checked its operating?
If a new boiler is still required, then look at the Intergas.
Any new boiler will have to be fitted on a clean system anyway, and it could well be crud in the system that's causing a lot of your current problems. If you are out of your depth, get a Pro in to have a look, a good service and system flush may well sort out your boiler and cylinder issues. Have you looked at the motorised valve on the HW side and checked its operating?
If a new boiler is still required, then look at the Intergas.
A good start ! the valve can be locked open by sliding the lever and catching it behind the notch in the metal case
How old is the boiler? If nearing the end of its lifespan, and you have good water pressure & flow from the cold water main, consider a high flow combi. More expense at the moment, but it is best to preempt the failures. Then all that plumbing in the loft can be got rid of. A combi will also give you power shower performance. Quality combis are available with excellent control systems, being much cheaper to run than your old boiler.
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