Menvier TS400/TS410

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I'm not moving wires? I am following advice from sparky, who is being most helpful.

Stating get a multimeter, doesn't help much.....

Doobs
 
what do you mean they come on eventually ? kick every one out, close all doors if any door contacts fitted put in code, keep still if theres a detector near you and what happens ?
 
Stating "To get a multimeter" is the best method you can use rather than swapping wires about.
You can check polarity. Continuity, Correct voltages. On both the panel and peripherals.
This would save time and many questions.

Or

Strip the panel out and after proving the panel, reconnect each item one at a time.

Choice is yours.
 
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So today I have purchased a multimeter,

What should I be checking on please, could you guide me?

With thanks,

Doobie.
 
Associatedalarms, again not very helpful. If you can't offer me advice, of a basic nature (remembering what this forum is about - helping others) then please don't waste your or my time replying.

If on the other hand you wish to genuinely try to help me, then it would be much appreciated.

I am after instructions on what to check and how. I know there is a fault somewhere between the control box and th outside bell, possibly to do with the tamper on the external siren being open. How can I confirm this, and more importantly what do I do to fix it?

Doobie
 
Sparks - ill confirm what happens when I set it tomorrow when I have a little time.

Thanks once again for all the valuable and sensible support.

Doobs
 
Polarity, is the correct way around for the connection.
Continuity, is the cables being solid without a break. So join the ones in question with power off.
Voltages, how much voltage is at the bell, the pirs the panel power outputs.
Peripherals anything else connected.

You could also do a MA reading to ensure the panel is not being overloaded.

So following the above if you find no continuity in the pair, you have a broken cable.
No power a fuse or broken cable. If power at cable and when connected it disappears a faulty unit.

So sorry you did not know or could not be bothered to find out the common terms used.

Try this to help http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_6/chpt_2/3.html
 
with multimeter set on dc range you should get 13.80v dc typical across aux volts, battery terminal and hold off + and - also if your tamper return was ok 13.80 across hold off + and tamper return. check and come back to us.
 
Polarity, is the correct way around for the connection.
Continuity, is the cables being solid without a break. So join the ones in question with power off.
Voltages, how much voltage is at the bell, the pirs the panel power outputs.
Peripherals anything else connected.

You could also do a MA reading to ensure the panel is not being overloaded.

So following the above if you find no continuity in the pair, you have a broken cable.
No power a fuse or broken cable. If power at cable and when connected it disappears a faulty unit.

So sorry you did not know or could not be bothered to find out the common terms used.

Try this to help http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_6/chpt_2/3.html[/QUOTE]

Thank you Associatedalarms, that is helpful :). I will take your kind advice and do some reading. I will try out testing the items you have suggested.

Doobie
 
with multimeter set on dc range you should get 13.80v dc typical across aux volts, battery terminal and hold off + and - also if your tamper return was ok 13.80 across hold off + and tamper return. check and come back to us.

I'll be testing tomorrow!!!! Thanks all, this really is a learning experience and th guys (and gals) on here are incredibly helpful!!!!
 
with multimeter set on dc range you should get 13.80v dc typical across aux volts, battery terminal and hold off + and - also if your tamper return was ok 13.80 across hold off + and tamper return. check and come back to us.

Battery terminal = 13.57
Hold off + - = 13.60
Hold off + and tamper return = 0.01!!
Aux and aux = 0

Ok, additional information. I purchased some brand new 1amp fuses, replaced those (just to be sure).

I have also rigged up a wire from H/O - and TMP-. Closed everything up and went downstairs to try the system.

Tamper light when out, and I could set the system, correctly.

Now, the internal alarm goes off, if I open a door, when the alarm is set, but obviously the outside bell does not sound (big step in the right direction).

I can confirm that the tamper on the external siren is open (100%). Any suggestions on the next steps to fix this please?

Doobs
 
faulty bell box or wiring to bell box. ladder time lol ps what type of bell box is it ? any leds on it ? are they lit ?
 
Its a generic alarm company one.

No leds or lights or anything.

Kings and something or other.

Any suggestions on what unit I would need to replace it (it is 9 years old now)?
 

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